Well I ended up modifing a set of a-body pedals which was very easy to do.
I had to straighten the bends in them to get them over to the left side a
little more so I could move the gas pedel also. I just cut the sheet metal
that the gas pedal was mounted to and move the hole section over and
welded it back in place. The master cly. I took that and moved it up to the
next set of bolts above the original mounting place and opened up the hole
were it went inside the fire wall. Theres two holes in the brake pedal were
the linkage attatches the rod to the master cly. It's almost as if the factory
new I was going to do this modification and my cluch peadal linkage has a
bend in it so I can poke a hole in the fire wall just next to the sterring
colume and that will be inside of the inner fender well, I'm modifing a z-bar
so it will set in the stock location also. I can't believe how easy this is
comming together after I just stood back and thought about it a little bit.



GT.

c5farmer Did you ever order that vinal floor covering?
Just wondered how it looks and fits.


GT.

Making my 63 Tempest into a twin Turbo 474, (25.2 chassis ) just to have a little fun on the street. It will have 72mm too start with and be up grader to two 88mm when I get use to the car. Turbos are where the power is at. So I will have a lot of odd parts that will not be used.

Cool:> Keep us posted.

How far did you take your car?
 

I am still at the ugly part.

project stuff
 

Just finishing up on making upper shock mounts for my leaf spring rear end 63 Lemans.
Using 3"x3"x1/4" box tubing I made up bolt-on "brackets" that fit onto the subframe rails with flat plates inside the trunk to bolt to. Springs are on 46" center-to-center.

Basically, a small hole about 1 1/2" square is cut into the bottom of the frame rail to allow the top eye and bushing of the shock to fit up into. The bracket is "U" shaped to straddle the frame rail and it has a 1 1/2" hole cut for the shock eye and bushing to fit in. The bracket is drilled for mounting bolts including 4 holes in the top, 2 for the shock mounting bolts and 2 for tying the bracket to the bottom of the frame rail. When mounted the bracket fits solidly up against the bottom of the frame rail and the top of the bracket sits flush against the flange of the frame rail at the top. To reinforce the tying of the frame rail to the bracket, a piece of 1/4" flat stock about 1" wide and about 1 3/4" long (width of inside frame rail) is placed inside the frame rail on each side of the hole in the rail.

As shown in the pics, the sides of the frame rails are not perpendicular to the floor pan so the brackets had to be cut at an angle to fit the rails. The sides of the brackets are "contoured" to fit. Final assembly will use 5/16" bolts with locknuts for mounting to the trunk floor and bottom of rail and 3'8" bolts with locknuts for the shock mount.

Just got back with the wagon.
To tired to mess with tonight.
Might take it down to the shop tomorrow.



GT.:sleep:

Nice! My next engine (after the one I'm currently building) will be a twin turbo deal with 76mm's. No 25.2 chassis for me though. I think my current set up should take me as fast as I want to go.

Redoing my top end to get into the 10.50's. New heads, intake, and cam.

This is a great thread guys, lots of really nice looking stuff in here. I am hopefully going to pick up my '63 this weekend. I am thinking of converting it to a different form of "stock suspension". I might do a 25.3 chassis with a torque arm.
Right now this is just a though because I haven't actually laid underneath one of these cars yet.
Has anyone ever taken the front wheel wells out? Or is that not possible with the stock front suspension configuration? Anyone have any more pictures of the stock front suspension?
Is it a strut rod type like the old Impalas? Or is there still two lower control arm mounting locations?

A frame on top with a single arm with strut on bottom. The fenderwell is welded in & is part of the unit body strength.

Strength wise, the chassis I will be building will be stronger than the stock piece is for sure.

Didnt now you were going to tube chassis it.

It won't be a full tube chassis, it will be like a 3/4 chassis type deal. But with putting the through the firewall bars in, along with a mid plate and motor plate the car will be solid up front. And on a drag radial car you would like to have a little forgiveness..

Anyone use the VFN bumpers and lower valances? Were they a PITA to mount? Any pictures?

I used the VFN rear bumper and rear valance and they were a snap to install. I put the rear bumper on with Dzus fasteners so it can be removed easily. I put the valance on with machine screws and nuts. I don't have any close-up pictures (see sig for long shot).

Jim

My 496 is at Mondello's being redone into a 525. The old motor was a little loose and all is being redone - 4.5 Crower ultralight billet, BME rods, new pistons, lots of work on my wideports, LS1 cam, etc. Also sending in my glide to have the case recertified. I took it easy on the car last year trying to get used to it and not wanting to push the old motor. Looking to run easy 8's next year.....

Maybe do a 25.5 deal then? At least you can keep most of the original floor.

It's going to be a 25.3, which is certfied to 6.50 under 3600lbs..

my two
 

Guess I just like white.