The caliper piston itself has a ratchet that brackets and levers pull to extend piston out mechanically to grab rotor. Here is a picture. They must be repoping the calipers as so many kits now use them.

So this is the oem design that gets stuck from not using?

I like that kit ,who makes it?

Yes it is the same TAs Cadillac also used that style

I do, all of the time whether it's my auto or manual transmission vehicles.

Vehicles equipped with leading and trailing brakes have the rear brakes adjusted by applying the parking brake. Better engage it hard a few times every once in a while if you want your rear brakes to function properly.

So I got a set of calipers with e brake $120 for the set,not bad rotors $90 for 2.I have all the levers and backing plate from donor 80 ta.Im missing the lever return springs for the e brake,I looked everywhere for that spring.Does anyone know where I can get them from?Thanks

When installing the e brake cable,are just the rear cables replaced or the front and rear replaced?

Typically for the metric caliper, just the rear cables. They should run from the hangers located just before the rear wheels, up to the calipers.

Thanks Jason,any info on the e brake springs?also are the rear disk brake axles specific for stock metric calipers?I have the Moser for drum.Will this be an issue

The metric calipers are slide pin calipers so they have some fudge in them as far as mounting over the rotors. However it's not unheard of to need to add some shims to get them into a happy place.

I'm not sure what kind of information you're looking for on the ebrake spring. Those are built on to the caliper. So your factory ebrake cables will attach to the rear half of the cables that attach to the ebrake lever on the caliper. The spring is located over that lever which will pull it into the "off" position when the ebrake isn't set in the car.

There is a specific calibration procedure you need to undertake with the brake caliper. You set the ebrake adjustment when the caliper is dry. Then when you are bleeding the brakes, you want to have the bleeder valve as close to perfectly vertical as possible. If you get an air pocket in the calipers, or the adjustment is not done correctly while the caliper is dry, you have to drain the caliper, let it dry out, then start again.

Thanks Jason,the spring I'm referring to is attached to caliper that returns the lever to unloaded.I only paid$ 62 for the calipers the spring was not installed.I will check Right Stuff for that spring

Just to say, the rear disc conversion kits using the Eldo calipers is about $450 for the whole kit.



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I'm in it 120 plus the overpriced e brake cables that I got from Inlinetubes that I could have got a whole lot cheaper at AutoZone.I needed drums and pads and a e brake cable anyways.So the rotors and pads price comparo was a wash.

What size brake lines are used with the rear disk brakes?

3/16, 1/4 for everything else.


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OK got disc brakes installed all adjusted and loving it .1st time out testing rear brake locked up 1st back end slid sideways a little .Installed adjustable valve 5 turns out still locked up 1st ,turned all the way out,still locked up.Seemed like there was no change from all the way in to all the way out with the knob.Maybe bad valve.Also running hydroboost system.Any recommendations?

Can you post a picture of how the adjustment valve is installed?
Those valves are basically a needle valve . Turning the knob in closes the valve and restricts flow to a point.

Can you lock the front brakes on asphalt? If you are unable to lock them up then problem may lie there.

What is the master cylinder bore size?

Does it match the master cylinder bore size of the rear caliper doner vehicle.

I don't see where you mention what adjustable prop valve you are using?

As previously stated, usually when a valve is wide open, it provides 50/50 bias. As you 'close' the valve, it restricts the flow to the rears, making it less than 50%. Whatever less it is becomes provided to the fronts. (60/40, 70/30, etc, as an example.)

Start with the valve all the way closed. Then turn counter-clockwise 1 turn at a time, until it locks up, then back it off.

You probably started with it already too far out.

Pics help a lot. Post pics.



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It's a wilwood style adjustable proportional valve installed separately for rear brakes.The fronts are supplied from Master to 'T' block then to front brakes.Went testing again today with valve turned all the way out or all the way in,there was no difference.If I do a panic stop both front and back apply about the same ,the rear stays straight.If brakes are slowly pressed harder and harder the rear locks up and wants to come around

I have a new wilwood valve on order from amazon.The one I've been using looked corroded on the inside where the pressure seal rides in the bore.The MC came off a 95 astro van along with the accompanied hydro boost ,Deciphered MC pn and shows a 1.25 bore inwhich is large for my setup.More updates after install of new valve