I would make sure you have a big belt sander, makes squaring up all the pipes easy. If your stainless moves around anything like mine did when I had it finished welded you can fix the flanges. We used tinfoil over the ends of the tubes with a couple of rod sized holes pocked in the foil to purge the pipes when welding.
With as fast as you have gone on nitrous going 7's with a turbo should be easy!
Good luck with the project and my Santa bring you a nice set of jack stands, turbo cars like jackstands, LOL

ive got some jackstands lol, and after lots of hard work this year, i was able to pick up a cheap lift on craigslist. Its like having a car on a shelf hahahaha

i personally dont plan on finish welding the headers, i think that may be one area of the car i have some help with. I would like to "tack" them up and have them finish welded by a professional.

The few things i am concerned with at this time....

do i go extra bolt holes in the block and heads or is this nessecary? Ofcourse it will be o ringed block with reciever grooves i imagine.

bore and stroke

cylinder heads selection

one set of big expensive injectors or two cheaper small sets

In red...

Smart move to tack and send out. That will save a bunch of time and probably some frustration going thriugh the learning curve.
Extra bolts would be a nice addition, but not sure if it is needed. It all depends on the amount of boost you would be running.

On the bore and stroke I would tell you from my experience that my 535 seems to work really well.

You know there is alot of BS talk on the heads to use, and it will be debated forever. I will tell you that my heads I am absolutely satisfied with and would absolutely reccomend them (and have) again to any one, especially when boost is involved.
I would also suggest the roller cam bearing option in the block.

On the injectors--Talk to Travis. lol

Brother did a lot of his welding with a simple spool gun - turned out great in my opinion and allowed for purchased SS headers, BBC of course. He has 2 88's hung over the rear axle with Fast XFI on E85.

I'd go with either 2 88's or a single 106mm... thought about it many times, but I like the eye candy sticking through the hood - even if it is slower! :) Gdlk!

Due to traction you have only been at 5 psi and at 4200 lbs your mph has you around 1000 hp. No question in my mind once you get traction resolved you will be able to use all your turbo's capacity. (106 iirc) I see a bigger turbo or twins in your future Doc.

I kind of like a 4.25 bore myself for gasket and oring considerations. 4.25x4.25 for 482 ci not a bad combo to consider either.(IIRC Butler promod is that ci)Maybe a 4" stroke 454 inch combo if you want some rpm to play with. Calvin Hills Quest port CV's have good volume for a turbo and flow 430+(I witnessed higher on Mondellos sf1020 bench). Exhaust mod (std Pontiac style port not convertible) gives great exhaust numbers for a turbo application. Convertible exhaust option like Doc has eases exhaust fab. A set of highports done by Calvin might be my second choice.

IMO the Moran injectors though quite pricey are the best injector out there. Bosch if you are going to double up would be my second choice.(probably still less cost than the Moran's)
Dont rule out a good blow-thru carb from CSU.

With the exhaust flanges:

1) We make them thick (typically .500" material)

2) We make one of the center exhaust bolt holes the "master hole" and have a
close tolerance between it and the stainless steel stud going thru it.

3) We make the other exhaust flange holes oval shaped (to allow for expansion
of the flange from heat. All of the holes get a stainless steel stud going thru them.

4) We surface machine the flanges (after welding) to be flat and true. We then very
carefully machine a "China Wall" around each port opening. This "China Wall" will be
.050" taller than the basic surface of the header flange. The "China Wall" will have a
.200" wall around each port opening. To do this you need to remove material everywhere
on the flange except in the "China Wall" locations.

5) You then have Vermiculite gaskets made that are .060" thick.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vermiculite

The Vermiculite material is a natural mineral that expands with the application of heat.
The expansion process is called exfoliation and it is routinely accomplished in purpose-designed
commercial furnaces. Between the "China Wall" and the Vermiculite material we have run
extremely high pressure ratios and have never failed an exhaust flange gasket.

Food for thought.

Tom Vaught

after lots of looking at pics of my nitrous combo in my car, the sv1 head looks like a great idea mainly because of the exhaust placement, would mean much easier header fabrication...

What about seat material and valve material?

CV-1s with "Convertible Exhaust" location was one of the first things to hit my eye when the heads first came out.

Tom Vaught

If you want to race it in a heads up class what size turbo would you have to use? Travis picked 2- 78mm turbos for my build. One of the classes I want to run in will require them to be reduced to 67mm. Just something to keep in mind.

Which was the main reason I went with FI. If I have to make changes from one track to another I wanted to do it with my laptop. Im not a carb expert so I felt a little more comfortable being able to rely on making changes with the laptop.

I used twin 160lb injectors, but Im running meth not gas. FAST has some info on how to calculate how big a injector you will need using pump gas. I would look at the 225lb atomizer injectors if your planning on running pump gas. I've read good things about the ability to tune them.

My twin 160's were tough getting enough fuel out of them at a idle. Im still getting some raw fuel but its the best I can do with a FAST classic. If you look at the BS3 controller I think you can control when the second set of injectors comes in. You have to first decide what fuel and max HP you want to make.

I was told to use Ti intake valves and Super Alloy exhaust valves.

Think about turbo placement as well. I had to raise my motor 1" to get the headers to clear with a std edlebrock head. I used 1.750" header tubes. When I buy a new head I'll plan on using one that has the convertible head option. That would have made my life much better during the header fab.
If you place them lower than the oil pan plan on a oil reclaim pump as well.

See it doesnt take long for the money to start adding up. I spent $1400 on the aluminum tubing for the cold side, carbon steel headers and 3.5" stainless exhaust tubing. I built all of it my self except the exhaust flanges.

I would also recommend using a forward facing TB. My dominator hat is roughly 6" above the fender line. This might require a sheet metal intake but I think it would be worth it in the long run.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=626838

I contacted Travis to spec a twin turbo system for my friends 540 BBC powered car(a bit of payback,a Pontiac guy spec'ing parts for a Chebby,he,he.), he came back with twin Precision 76's,gates,BOV's and a custom Comp solid roller. Everything seems to be working well together,along with a CSU Domi that is about spot on out of the box. So far he has run a couple of high 8's at 160mph,with a soft 9psi tune(non intercooled but with an AIS water inj.kit) in his 2950lb tube car, we are still trying to get the hang of the 7531 box and AMS 500 boost controller, both a neccesity in this street tyred 90" wheelbase pocket rocket. Travis spec'd the turbos for around the 1500hp mark.

No class racing for me, thanks. Hp....let's shoot for 2500ish, why not!!

Do the cv1 heads have the extra bolt option?

I recall having a discussion with Jim a year or so ago where he stated that he had the provisions designed into the head for the additional head bolt, or it could be converted. Can't remember specifics, but I was inquiring for the same reasons a year or so ago and found out it could be done.

good luck with your new project.

Thanks Jeff it's gonna be a serious learning curve. Talking with Travis and Rodney frequently, I think they have me started in the right direction.

Ok, here is the first big breakthrough in my turbo future.

Rodney butler is working on the block and heads. We haven't decided yet in wide ports or pro ports, waiting on his phone call to finalize that situation. He will be performing the butler/Quillen secret head sealing duties before sending me the block and heads. It will e a dry deck. As of right now, it's looking like 4.25 bore and 4.25 stroke.

Travis is sending me the 88mm billet wheel turbos, and precision 66mm wastegates, and pt3000 intercooler. I will begin mock up and build headers and piping with stock block and a mock up set of heads while waiting on heads and block to get here.

As of now, that's the big start to this project. Pics and more info as I move forward on this project.

Thanks to Travis and Rodney this project looks easier every day. And actually very budget friendly.

You are definitely getting advice from the right guys!