High Port crossover/ timing cover misalignment
 

Has anyone ever just made a water crossover that actually aligns with the hole in the timing cover. Just cut out the section and raised it up to match.
I do not see why it can not be done. Aluminum welding is not my thing but I could get my Lincoln 180 amp 220V welder ready to do the fabrication.
Cut up 2 aluminum crossovers and fab it together so it aligns up.
But it usually does not work well without a spool gun at least and no Tig at home. It would be ugly.
I could make one out of steel but it would not look good either.
KRE should just cast some up, I bet they would sell.
I keep hearing about the front cylinders running hot if I just plug the holes like most do. Pump gas engine, it would be a problem.
How much is the offset ? Looks like around 3/4" from the picks I have seen.

Why would the front cylinders run hot because that's blocked? Not sure who you're listening to but i'd stop listening

Ditto!


GTO George

The timing cover to crossover holes are just a bypass(Chevies actually have a hose there). So no big deal to plug it, maybe drill a couple of small holes in the thermostat if you are using one.

I’ve had a that hole plugged on my street and race car for years with no issues.

Mine is plugged no issues.
I wanted it plugged so all hot coolant from the heads had to go through the radiator instead of the hot bypass straight back to the engine.

I have also had the by pass hole plugged for years. I had no negative heating issues from plugging it. I do not run a thermostat, just a restrictor plate.

You can run without the bypass channel connected and you will have more uniform cooling... however if you're using a thermostat it won't open consistently. That issue can be solved by adding by-pass holes like Skip suggested.

X2 on jacking up the thermostat without drilling holes in it. Took me a while to figure that out.

I understand people have been just plugging the holes and getting by. But I do not think it would be hard to make one work as intended either. Anyone ever make one ?

The question to your post is why.Just does not seem the "juice is worth the squeeze"Tom

Well said Tom ..lol

If I am getting this straight, most of you guys are running lines from the back of the heads to the crossover under the thermostat and blocking the front holes that were for the crossover?

That’s what I do.

What is on mine:
The crossover and timing cover are both plugged where they would meet.
Restrictor in crossover in place of thermostat.
-8 lines from rear of heads (connected above restrictor) to outlet housing.

Any chance you could post pics of your setup. Thanks

I though about this if I would have run the HP heads. My son is a welder and what I was gonna do was straight cut across the bypass, then lower it to match timing cover, then Aluminum weld together. I think it's an easy fab job.

Can some of you guys explain the benefits of blocking the cross over, then running lines from the back of the heads to the cross over.?


Thanks

Only pic I have on my tablet.
If you need more detail, I can probably dig something up.

Only pic that I have on my tablet.
If you need more detail, I can probably dig something up.

Just to make sure, they are not blocking the crossover at the head. Just blocking the crossover where it connects to the timing cover.

Great looking engine sir. Lot of coin and attention to detail there.

Well, just got off the phone with Jeff. Needed a 1016 and BOP one piece. That have just made a casting run for a High Port crossover that matches the misalignment(9/16) They are in heat treating right now. Have them in about two weeks.
Seems there was enough of a issue to cast the crossover. More water moving is better.

Didn't mean to highjack this thread, but as usual I have learned something! Glad I am just starting to mock this up hate going backwards!
Thanks!

Cool sounds like they've found a way to make more money.
I still don't see how blocking that little by-pass hole does anything. The only thing i see is when the thermostat is closed you have zero flow but that's why it's been posted all you need to do is drill a couple holes in the t-stat and problem solved.
Fwiw there have never been any signs of issues with heat with my HP engine, either dyno, strip or street and don't run water from back of head to the crossover. That's just my experience.

OK, I will bite. Why not run water from the back of the head to the crossover ? Jeff said its a good idea. The new crossover is thick enough to drill and tap for fittings.
Can it hurt ?

It helps from the possibility of getting air pockets stuck in the back of the head. It keeps everything more even. I run a thermostat also but instead of drilling it its notched twice 180 degrees apart. Crossover is plugged also , HP heads.

Ever since I started using a Lisle radiator funnel to fill my engine(s) whilst they're able to run, so they can burp themselves, i've never had any air pocket issues again, with plugged rear coolant holes, plugged bypass + 3x holes in t/stat. Before, I always had trapped air problems and for the first 3-4 heat cycles i'd run the engine and the eng temp gauge would fluctuate a fair bit until the air worked itself out. Now I just fill, warm up, let cool down, cap on, top up overflow then it's good to go.

I want to run a thermostat vs the disc with a hole in it because want the engine to warp up as fast as possible. I have a extra .002 piston to wall because it is hard blocked. Do not want to listen to the pistons rattle any longer than I have to.

What I am thinking is running a 160 deg thermostat with the new KRE crossover then the 2 lines from the back of the heads to the back of the crossover.

Ok, Thank you. I see what your doing. Makes sense now.



So, you plugged the timing cover to cross over, then ran a line from the back of each head to the cross over on the radiator side of restrictor plate.
Is that correct?


So now you have flow from the front of each head via the cross over, and flow from the back of each head via the -8 lines.



Thanks
Charles

So the restrictor plate has how many holes?


I'm trying to wrap my head around the function of the restrictor plate.



It appears your trying to balance flow from the front of the heads, with the flow from the back of the heads to the radiator?



Thanks
Charles

Exactly right.

Restrictor is just an aluminum disc with a hole in the center.
Restrictor is sized to the diameter of the coolant lines from rear of head.

Larry has a great setup if you are interested, fabbed to bolt directly to Pontiac Intake, not chevy pattern which requires an adapter which is what I did.

http://www.precisionautomotivespecia...Manifolds.html

Cool let us know how it works for you.

Ok, Just wanted to say Thank you for taking the time to help. I appreciate it..
Thanks also Dragncar, sorry I high jacked your thread.

Thanks also 535 Talldeck.



Charles

Its all good man. People learning things, what its al about. I checked the stuff out too. I wish it worked with a thermostat so It looks like I will drill and tap the KRE crossover.
The new crossover should help KRE sell more stuff. High Port heads, not so much just the crossover. I bet there are more than just a few people who did not want to deal with plugging it all up and bought E heads.
My HPs outflow the 340-350 std port E heads by 20cfm on the same size bore and the E heads ports are taller and wider. Jeff called today to straighten out a order and I asked him about it and he told me the HP has a more efficient port, moves more air faster and is going to make more tq and HP.
There have been some really nice running std port E head pump gas combos out there. It will be very interesting to see how my engine stacks up.

Ya, Nice that there making a crossover for the HP heads. I'm in the process of doing an IA2 now with the E-heads from Dave at SD. Gonna try for 750 hp. That will be lots for now.

Charles

Looks like they are available now

How much?

Yep, Jeff just called me today and said they were in and ready to sell. I have one on the way.

Kauffman's

Took them long enough.

its a neat part they can make a little extra on when they sell a set of heads but is it even neccessary? my hi port combo ran fine pluged, my cv 1 combo ran fine plugged, my ehead combos are plugged. Granted nothing over 13.5:1 and most were 11.5:1.

Not necessary at all but it will make KRE money because people think they need it.

Website says 85. Mines plugged also ,maybe a street combo could use it better.

Mine is plugged with no issues.

Maybe to "hide" the HiPorts?

That's the only reason i can think of to buy one, for looks.
Admittedly the crossover is cheaper than i expected it to be.

Its needed, I know of a street driven, high horsepower aftermarket block engine with High Ports. When it came apart after several thousand miles and trips to the track the engine builder, a Super Stock guy with excellent credentials said the front 2 cylinders showed signs of excessive heat.
No reason not to buy one as far as I am concerned.