Oil pressure
 

How long should it take to build oil pressure with a 3/8 drill and a primer tool? I have been trying to prime my engine and turn it over occasionally like the machinist said since it’s being stored but I cannot seem to get any pressure build up on the gauge even though the drill is meeting a lot of resistance. I took the gauge loose and am only getting drips out of the line.

Make sure you are turning it counter clockwise, and a powerful 1/2" drill will usually work a lot better.

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+2 re 1/2” drill.

Are you using a gutted dizzy as the priming tool or just a rod? It’s my understanding the gutted dizzy helps in pressurizing system.

What oil filter and is it new?

If rotating the drill correct way and there is sufficient oil in pan, and the filter is new, might take some time to fill filter?

:confused:

Since I am having to run the drill in reverse I am getting slippage because the chuck is loosening so that’s probably why. I don’t have access to a 1/2 drill

That is most likely your issue. They turn over hard with 10/30 oil and not going to be any easier if you are running anything thicker than that.

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Dont you have heavy oil in that engine?If your going to do it on a regular basis you will need to go buy a 1/2 in drill motor.Tom

Yeah it’s got 20/50 in it and I have no way to drain it because the cradle is in the way of the drain plug

Local tool rental ? Home Depot in Greenville probably rents 'big' drills.


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You can do it with a 3/8" drill, but it will get hot real fast. Should take about 15 sec to get full oil pressure.

That's chevy stuff. Our Pontiacs it makes no difference.

Clay

Also make sure the oil plug on the back of the engine is in place , without the plug you won't build up much oil pressure.---BOB

Thanks- Learn something new every day!

Distributor body esp important in some of the early blocks like my 409s .

I have toasted a Craftsman 1/2 " before. It really loads the drill, a 3/8 is not going to cut it. It does take awhile to get pressure up to the top even with a 1/2".

And it it does not work very well when your oil lines are reversed going out to you external filter adapter. Ask me how I know :)

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Should you really expect an oil pressure gauge to read anything if you're turning the engine with a drill? It takes a few seconds for my engine to build oil pressure when I cold start it, and that's with it turning at 1,000 rpm.

I wouldn’t be too concerned with building up oil pressure and getting oil flowing to the top end.

Spin the oil pump for 10 or 15 seconds, rotate the engine some and call it good.

Yes. Turning with an electric 1/2" drill will show plenty of oil pressure on the gauge.

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:fish::fear:

Grind 3 flats on the priming tool for the chuck teeth to set on and when chucking the tool go around all the chuck holes tightening all of them not just the one hole.

3 equal depth and spaced flats no cave man crap

Oh it had 80 pounds on the run in stand so I know there’s no plug out. I got out my air drill and even with the compressor pumped all the way up it had a hell of a time and only dripped from the oil line. I guess I will just have to buy a 1/2 drill if I’m gonna keep doing this

Something doesn't sound right - where is the oil line plumbed to, next to dizzy or oil filter adapter? And you're sure your spinning CCW? No offense, but have you confirmed you have full oil pan?

I know you've taken the gauge off the line but has the brass oil line ferrell crushed the line? Take the line totally off the brass fitting and then try it.

The oil line is plumbed in by the filter and the line is not pinched or kinked. I really just think I can’t get a good grip on the tool without chuck slippage, too heavy oil, and too weak a drill. It’s definitely moving oil because the tool comes out soaked and the line has a steady dribble but the electric drill sounds like it’s gonna explode when I really push it and the air drill bogs down below 75 pounds

Post #20

No better use for a cheap Harbor Freight 1/2" drill. Mine gets oil to the rockers in about 30 sec. All of $30.

https://www.harborfreight.com/power-...ill-69452.html

I have an old 1/2” HF too, bought for this very task...

I got a mud mixer drill from amazon for 45 dollars with a 2 year warranty and a keyed chuck. We will give that a try

I've gotten oil at the rocker using an old distributor shaft and a Milwaukee cordless 3/8 angle drill .... would pump up to 20 psi ... bog the drill to a stand still .... I'd give it a second, run it up to 20 psi again ... half a dozen times and I had oil at the rockers, never more than 20 psi. Rotated the crank 90 degrees at a time all the way around, each time going to 20 psi ... then called it done.

I was using OEM stamped steel rockers ... still somewhat loose prior to final rocker adjustment ... so depending on where the cam was the lifters that were down would leak the oil out between lifter and pushrod, the lifters that were up it would come out at the rocker.

If you have any valve grinding / lapping compound spread it on the driveshaft where the drill clamps onto and it will not spin.

Also check the end / top of the 3 teeth on your drill's Chuck, as many times the are beat up and rounded over.
If so close down the Chuck all the way flat file them back to being a sharp edge.

Yep plenty.

:fear:

Even with this drill you will likely have to resolve the slippage of priming tool- insert advice to grind 3 flat spots on the shaft.

Is your 3/8” drill electric or cordless?

Hope it'll run backwards!

The trick to all this is fill the new oil filter full of oil then screw it on before your first spin. All your trying to do is replace the air in the lubricating system with oil. The new oil filter holds 95% of the air you're trying to rid the system of, the pump holds 5%. Do this and you'll be like Jed Clampet watching that bubbling crude coming up out of the ground in no time.

So maybe something that happened between the engine run in stand and now has changed the dynamics.

IDK, myself , after break in, I would of changed oil, run til HOT,fogged it on final hot run, backed off rockers and sealed it up tight as a frogs ass. Put in big Bag with desiccant pack/s. Put on a cardboard lined, plywood top pallet, gently to not compromise bag integrity.

Store in a Constant climate controlled environment!!!!!

Let it rest peacefully and sealed, till time to put it in service.

Can’t wrap me head around why you are priming it over and over again?? 😐

Prime it again once before firing it up to go in service..after setting valves.

No need for this. There is already oil on all the internal surfaces. Back off the rockers, pull the plugs, add a bit of oil to each cylinder, turn over by hand, reinstall the plugs, bag it up and say good-night until your ready to run it. If you're anal about it, spray the exterior with WD-40 and throw some dessicant in the bag before sealing.

I have let rebuilt engines sit in the past with no protection for ungodly amounts of time then plopped them in and started them up (all 350 chevys with the 400 dollar northern auto rebuild kits) never had a problem but my machinist specifically told me every 3 months to turn it over 1/4 at a time and spray marvel mystery oil or the like in the spark plug holes, prime while turning and then put it back. I got over 10 grand in this motor and I got a 2 year 24,000 mile warranty as long as I document my odometer and the day it’s installed and fired up with video so I want to do what he says.