79-81 Misc help needed
 

1. I recently purchased an 81 T/A 301 turbo. The car was broken into years ago, interior parts stolen, and basically vandalized. So the interior will be replaced. I looked at every parts house and I cannot find the little white clips that the slide into a groove on the shell that one of the lock rods slide back and forth in. Any idea what this part is called or where to get it?

2. As I understand it the 81 is the first year for the "computer" to control sensors in the engine bay and other things. Someone transplanted a 77 400 into the car. Can I install a 79 or 80 engine harness? I want to get rid of all the turbo wiring in the engine bay and the O2 sensor plug, TP plug end, and so on.

Thanks in advance!

Ignore the years..that goes for every ad Inline Tube as ever written.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-77-All...oY7h:rk:1:pf:0

Awesome Thanks!

Computer harness comes out seperate from the wires needed for crank, run, charge, guages, etc., etc.... Wires needed come through the bulkhead/firewall connector just like older cars. Computer harness has a seperate hole that it comes through.

Clay

Hello Quick Siver I read your reply to the guy asking about wiring thought you might help me with a issue I have I have a Trans Am believe to be a 1981 looks like the computer wiring was changed? The engine harness at the fire wall was cut and new wires spliced one inch from the plug that connects at the firewall. I want to get a new harness but not sure which one to order.My question is are all the plugs the same as far as plugging into the firewalls receptical. I have bought the wiring schematics for 1979,80,81 don’t jive with the harness I have.

Saw your other post. Need to figure out exactly what you've got and what, if anything, has been changed on the car.
Computer Turbo cars had a seperate harness from the firewall plug/bulkhead connector.

Clay

One more thing......
I bought a power window switch from Ames, under the switch there is a black plug that pushes onto the switch. My plug is all crappy and melted from a previous owner from trying to solder it. Do I try to mount the wires to the studs on the back of the switch? Does anyone sell a replacement plug?

You can source pigtail plugs but they are not cheap. Mine was the same, all factory wiring burnt and previous repairs of trying to solder wire strands onto the terminals, no plug in sight.

When I rewired my windows with relays several years ago I also replaced the factory switch with new, used stud contact terminals similar to what would be inside the plug which I didn't have, and soldered these on and sealed with heatshrink. I then added a 5-wire connector plug below the switch to join to main harness.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7876/...cea5af33_b.jpgPower window switch clips1 by Aus78Formula, on Flickr

Cool, ask and you shall receive!!! So you have a custom plug a little ways down from the switch? Just a 5 wire male/female deal? Thanks!!

This one works perfectly. It replaces the melted connector that plugs to your pw switch. Just splice it into your wires. The wire colors don't match the originals, but I'll put up the color to color match below. I'm using it on mine: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-1967-C...l/401041795348

The left side colors are the new switch colors, and the right side are the original harness colors.
Dk green = blue
White = brown
Red = pink
Yellow = blue w/white
Lt green = tan

They've come down in price. And would have wanted another 30 in postage for me at the time.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7904/...87d1b6f2_b.jpgFirebird custom power window plug rewire by Aus78Formula, on Flickr

You guys are the cats nut sack!!!! Since were answering one more...

The car has power locks and not gonna bother with them yet. If you yank the door lock up it is tough to pull. I assume because you have to move the solenoid as well. Can I just remove the rod that goes from the solenoid to the lock?

I don't see why you couldn't. The rod isn't necessary if you're not using the pdl actuator.

Yes, door manual lock rods are separate. Simply remove what isn't wanted or not in use and they will free up as per one without power locks.

Actually, I'll add a pic in case you haven't looked inside door yet. Since the motor is likely riveted to the door shell, you'll need to flex the rubber bush in the head of it to one side and withdrawn the rod out of it, unhook at top.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7808/...7acf0e03_k.jpg20180328_165242 by Aus78Formula, on Flickr

Pfft Steve jumped me while I was uploading pics, that's the sort of guy he is!

Awesome guys.......thank you! I will have a few more!

LOL :D

Also, if it's still stiff after removing the actuator rod, you would probably need to clean and lubricate the door latch mechanism, and work it up and down until it works freely.

I ordered 80 seat covers standard interior in camel tan. Does the standard interior have the seat backs? Thanks again, you guys are saving me tons of time!!!

No, the standard seats don't have the plastic seat backs.

Crap. I guess I gotta send the seat backs back and buy hinge covers.

Here's a pic of one of my cars with standard interior. You can barely see the zipper at the top of the seat back. I don't have any hinge covers on it. I think they disintegrated. The white plastics didn't hold up very well.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7894/...42b324f5_c.jpgIMG_4213 by grand73am, on Flickr

You guys have been so helpful!! A few more questions. Kick panel removal...I started removing the pass side panel before it started to rain today. I assume it would be a little easier to remove by dropping that ac/heat duct out of the way. The duct has two bolts in the front which are not attached due to the duct dry rotting. Is there any more bolts on it? maybe through the glove compartment?
The seat belts were laying in the car not hooked up when I got it....so the cartridge goes on the roof but where does the other end go with the bar?

I am getting close to assembly and was going to do the headliner, then carpet, then go back to front. Is there a certain order that I should go in?? Any tips?

Yes, behind the glove box. There's a metal bracket on the left, and a screw attaching it to the duct on the right. Here are a couple pics.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7878/...0c1f5f58_c.jpgIMG_1077 by grand73am, on Flickr
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7884/...8f3fa704_c.jpgIMG_1078 by grand73am, on Flickr

See Steve's interior pic above.....the anchor end of seatbelts passes through the sidesill carpet and bolts into the side.

The kick panel is straight forward. Remove the vacuum valve cover, 2 screws. Then there's about 5 screws running around the opening that screw into the body of the car. After that, unplug the vacuum line that runs from the cowl door, and it wiggles out. It is meant to be all sealed up up with goop so that could be one thing holding it in place, apart from access.

Oops...you meant the ducting was stuck, not the kick panel. Now if you lived over here you'd also have dramas with pedals and park brake being in the way!

There might be another small screw on the far right underneath where the big duct connects to the dash vent duct. Just going from memory on that one.

Any thoughts on the order to assemble the interior? Grand73Am do you have any pics of how the computer under the dash mounts?

Thanks guys!!!! Interior assembly this weekend!!

Your order of assembly sounds reasonable to me. Can't help with the computer since my cars are 79's.

Any pics of what goes on the back of the console?

The console rear simply has this plastic panel held in by 2 screws from the inside. They are black.

https://www.firebirdcentral.com/1970..._p/con-161.htm

https://fbodywarehouse.com/store/197...e-used-gm.html

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7822/...9513fea4_b.jpg2019-03-15_10-06-59 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
This back piece is broke, but it shows how its installed.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7837/...22ec9c41_b.jpg2019-03-15_10-07-19 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7854/...0cbc108c_b.jpg2019-03-15_10-07-08 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr

WOw. Thanks again! You guys are saving me the most precious thing time...How about one more... I have the large alternator. Originally being a 301 turbo car with all the power accessories and the bracket I have has one unused hole, I geuss something for the turbo mounts there. I have one from I think a 74 but the slotted hole does not line up. I guess its for the smaller case alternator. I think I have the correct power steering set up. So what bracket would I need for the big case alt? Thanks again guys!!!!

I just looked at a couple pics on ebay. Maybe I do have the right bracket. Whats the other pulley thing next to the alternator? HMMMM

[QUOTE=Aus78Formula;5998536]See Steve's interior pic above.....the anchor end of seatbelts passes through the sidesill carpet and bolts into the side.

Does this bar end physically go under the carpet? If so when installed does the hole with the belt in it point toward the front? Or back? I just dropped off the seat upholstery today, and I got a few small things left. I'll post some completed pics when done. Thanks again!

Yes, the metal strap part goes under the carpet. The plastic holder leans forward.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7896/...7fc2a104_c.jpg79 TA nocturn blue-tan q by grand73am, on Flickr

This angle might be clearer as to what's going on:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7834/...48fb426c_b.jpgCarpet and seatbelt2 by Aus78Formula, on Flickr

Well, my seats are at the upholstery shop. So I decided to fix the alt/ps bracket set up. The belts were crooked and just didn't look right bracket wise. I think whoever did this engine transplant used the 301 rear alternator bracket. (the part that bolts to the head) I think I need the aluminum bracket for the traditional pontiac 400? When you bolt the alternator on it does not line up with the hole in the stamped steel bracket. I also read about another pulley that keeps tension on the belt for the high amp alternator, I suppose this part is pretty hard to find. So which aluminum bracket do I need?

I figured I would revisit this thread since I have a couple more questions and you guys have obliged me well....thanks for that. I'm currently looking for the right throttle cable bracket, so before I buy the bracket (for the throttle and kick down) did they change the cable from the factory from 77-81? If so are the 301 throttle cables any different? I assume they don't repop this? I looked in all my catalogs. My hood release cable is dangling, is there a clip that hold this in place?

Clip on both ends.

https://www.firebirdcentral.com/1977.../she-2529h.htm

https://www.firebirdcentral.com/1977.../she-2529j.htm

The 400 engine throttle cable and kickdown bracket combo for a Firebird/TA can be hard to find. I don't see any on eBay. I suggest trying John on secondgengraveyard on Facebook, and he has a website, secondgengraveyard.com . He parts out a lot of these cars and might have one. I got one from him about a year ago. It looks like the pic below.

Concerning the throttle cables, the 301 cable is not the same as the 400. Amesperf.com has the cable for 75-79 TA's with a 400, which is what you'll need. Their part number is FN377D . So, you could look it up.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...85ebf3ea_c.jpg006 by grand73am, on Flickr

Sweet!! Thank you!!! I had a 74 bracket in my "misc bracket bin" and modified an edelbrock adapter with the 74 unit. It works and doesnt look to hokey. The cable seemed to short.

I have a few of those brackets too