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High Tech Pontiac OHC L6
It's a slow day around here so I though I'd pop this up on another forum incase anyone else found it interesting, and to justify a Buick guy on a Pontiac board :p I've been working on building an OHC straight six engine, well actually it'll eventually be two engines, but this first one is more or less proto-typing for my good build that will involve a custom intake and sufficiently sized turbo along with a ported head and a re-ground race cam. It'll be ran with sequential fuel injection with COP ignition all controlled by a MegaSquirt 3.
The main build can be found here: http://sohcsix.yuku.com/topic/2700/G...serious?page=1 This engine here is a '69 250, with a '69 1bbl head and '66 4bbl intake and exhaust manifolds. The head and bottom end were pulled apart for inspection then put right back together, rings, bearings and all. The 1bbl cam was toast, so I have a good used 1bbl cam to start the engine up with and if it does well I have a new 4bbl cam to install. The modification list to date include: 1) Removed the restrictor/orfice tube and replace it with a straight tube 2) Drill and mount an external oil pressure regulator to the head and lash adjuster galley 3) Replace the main oil pressure relief spring with one that should boost pressure to ~60-80psi. 4) Drilling the intake manifold and JB welded injector bungs into it 5) Mounted LS coil packs to the engine. 6) Modified the points distributor for a cam sensor Here are a couple older pictures. Ignore the rubber hoses, it was an idea I abandoned. http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...50516405_n.jpg http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...46858816_n.jpg http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...69281587_n.jpg http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...57161659_n.jpg I've built part of a rudimentary engine run stand to test out the oil pressure modifications prior to installing the engine into the car. Of course it'll let me test the EFI set up as well. I still need to make the control panel among a few other minor details. https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...25425717_n.jpg This is how it sits today. The fuel injectors are wired up and the ignition coils are partially wired up. I'm starting to feel like I can see light at the end of the tunnel! https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...75888028_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.n...03049476_n.jpg I'm particularly proud of my cam sensor. I just hope it works! (it should) https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...25655547_n.jpg And the car it's going into is a '69 Firebird. I've already changed out the motor mount brackets for the L6 ones, but still need to plumb the fuel lines and do some minor wiring. I have a 2004r that I'm going to rebuild to stick behind it. The MegaSquirt should do a good job of controlling the lock up converter :cool: I'll probably start looking for a 4L65e down the road when I go turbo. http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...14507369_n.jpg And the car patiently sits in a horse stall waiting for it's new engine :) http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...35598444_n.jpg |
BadAss!!!
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GAWD, I want one!!!!
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Can't wait to see the results. Great project!
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Really neat project, and tasteful engine details.
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Thanks! I'm headed out on a two week vacation, but when I get back I plan on finishing up the wiring and plumbing.
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So after a dozen or so side tracks I started up working on this again. I didn't take any pictures of it, but I installed an OHC starter nose cone on a Buick 455 starter for a bit more oomph starting up.
Got the project work board out for this one. I've added a few things to the list since I took the picture, like add oil and prime the system. https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...32403369_n.jpg Got the exhaust system for the run stand sorted out. I may have to cut the pipe just before the bend and adjust from there once in the car, this will do for now. https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...44851769_n.jpg. No where in Ely sells exhaust reducers so I had to improvise. So a few slices, some hammer taps and some welding fill. Due to my (lack) of awesome skills I had to fill a lot of gaps where the second pipe slide into that hole. https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...66329200_n.jpg I also fabricated up the crankshaft sensor mount as well as did final mounting of the alternator, complete with new belt. https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...19217208_n.jpg Got the sensor wiring routed safely around the exhaust. I'll put the alternator charging wire into the black loom when I wire it up. https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...83852203_n.jpg Tomorrow's plan is to work on the fuel system and finish up the wiring. |
Been doing some work on this and updating the yuko thread, so I'll copy the posts over.
Got the fuel side more or less done including the rail hold downs. I cleaned and gasketed the Q-jet as well. It was the grimy-est one I had so it only marginally cleaned up. I just remembered I need to add an O2 bung to the exhaust collector. I started to do some wiring, but wasn't in the mood to do it so will get to it later. I'm trying an unconventional way of setting the fuel system up by not having the fuel rail return at the far end. I am monitoring fuel pressure at the end of the rail opposite side of the regulator, so if there are issues at the end it'll present itself. It should work similarly to the return-less setup, in theory.... https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/...12540733_n.jpg https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/...61608430_n.jpg Set the timing belt cover on it for a few pictures. https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/...63687035_n.jpg https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/...51961352_n.jpg https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/...14504808_n.jpg |
And..
Finished up the main wiring on it today. I still have to make my two connector plugs at the rear of the engine though. I installed the O2 sensor that I had forgotten to do and had to switch to the Holley throttle body due to me being an idiot. The way the Q-jet is oriented on the intake the throttle isn't pulled, it's pushed and for some reason that didn't click with me until today when I was looking to set up the return spring and start on the throttle bracket with a 200-4r cable. So with the Holley I flipped the direction or the primaries and secondaries to put the linkage on the other side and in a pull situation. I knocked out the venturi's and made some plates to seal up where the float bowls used to be also. Here is how it sits right now. I'll tie up the red power wire with the crank sensor wire before it's all done. I debated what color to paint the block off plates, but ultimately Pontiac Blue won. Red, black and silver were the other options. I forgot to take a picture of the other side of the engine, I have the wires pretty much loomed up. https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/...97073184_n.jpg Like the Q-jet, this thing was pretty grimy, so it only cleaned up so much, but looks a ton better than before. I have linkage brackets on order and should be in next week. https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/...42342838_n.jpg Some one was asking how I mounted my air temp sensor. I took the sensor to the hardware store, found a grommet that it fit tightly in, used a stepped drill bit to drill a hole in the base plate for the grommet and done. https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...03931045_n.jpg |
And where it is today.
Solving not having the 4bbl pivot and lever brackets by running a holley center section backwards. Works like a champ. I will probably weld a steel pulley wheel to the bracket to support the 90*ish turn in the long run. I stood behind the engine about where the cable would go into the firewall and had no problem actuating the throttle and it returning properly. https://scontent-b-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/...57224381_n.jpg |
Looking great! Did the similar mod to my 1994 Trans Am and converted the LT1 to run on a LSx PCM and run LSx Coils for ignition. Really debating what to do with my newly aquired motor i have on the stand to ready to build.
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may want to look at the Bosch throttle body for a FI Seville
its basicly the back half of a Q jet |
Hadn't updated this thread in a while. Here are some updates. I may actually start it up this weekend!
Finished the connectors on the engine. https://scontent-a-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/...29752359_n.jpg I pulled the wiring harness off the engine and cleaned it up. Took about 5 minutes to pull it off the engine. https://scontent-a-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/...47552619_n.jpg Finished up the main wiring harness as well. The quick connects plug right into the engine harness. Most the other wires probably won't be used and will be trimmed once installed in the car. The only wires outside the plugs that will be needed is: +12v power, O2 sensor in, Fuel Pump trigger, and torque converter control. I intend on adding a vehicle speed sensor and possibly a couple pressure sensors for fuel and oil and possibly electric fan control. Some of the other wires might come back into play for boost control down the road. https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...33626637_n.jpg . I assembled the valvetrain, set the cam timing, topped off the oil and started priming the system. I also made a custom valve spring compressor tool for this engine so I can change the springs down the road when I upgrade the cam. Here is the used C-cam. Its the 175HP 1bbl cam. Figured I'd use this cam to get the engine running and driving and after I have the car on the road for a while I'll swap to a bigger E-cam, 215HP 4bbl cam. Notice the cam lubricates the followers directly. https://scontent-b-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/...67584307_n.jpg Here are the lash adjusters in place before I set the cam housing on. https://scontent-b-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/...31505546_n.jpg The stock oil pressure is set at around 30psi, so I swapped the stock relief spring with a spare Buick white spring I had, which is supposed to be 60psi in the Buick (my experience says 75psi). I primed the system up and the system pressurized to 95psi, so I cut three coils off and it dropped to 70psi, which I am good with. https://scontent-a-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/...33917255_n.jpg https://scontent-b-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/...38726789_n.jpg I made a valvespring compressor for when I go to upgrade the springs down the road. I took a spare 9mm allen wrench and a universal stamped steel Buick rocker arm and began cutting, grinding and welding and came up with this. The T shaped one has a notch at the end to hook the oil galley in the lash adjuster hole and I welded a nub on the end of the rocker arm to keep the T part from sliding out. I stuck a standard 6 point impact socket and extensions on the end of the allen handle for extra leverage. I'm considering cutting down the allen handle and simply using the socket and extension for the lever. More compact. https://scontent-a-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/...96764553_n.jpg In action. I originally left the loop on the rocker in place, though shaved a bit, for structural reasons, but I think I can safely remove it if I box in the rocker below the allen shaft and on the other side between the opening and slot for the T. https://scontent-a-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/...14638050_n.jpg Got the external oil line and regulator working. I had to down size the feed line because it was bleeding off the main line pressure as well. Right now I have a temporary 1/8th inch fuel line (rated to like 120psi..) for the external line, but I'll order up something more permanent. Worse case I'll go with some copper line since there isn't any flexing once installed. I need to come up with an oil return location. there is a rubber plug on the side of the oil fill tube so I might install the return into that or make a new oil fill cap with the return line fitting on it. An interesting observation on the main line oil pressure gauge. I noticed this gauge takes a while to show pressure build up compared to the electric oil pressure gauge on my Skylark when I did a back to back test. On this engine both oil pressure gauges come off the same tee and one is clearly slower in responding, the one with the long plastic line. I think the air in the line causes the long delay and slow response in oil pressure, which is a common thing in mechanical oil pressure gauges. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DcDLi...Jo4BJ5Am4jH-sA Got the shop and tools cleaned up and organized today. Got the engine back on the run stand and found some radiator hoses from NAPA. Hopefully the radiator doesn't leak =P I'll get two mufflers ready for testing as well. Getting ready for install, hopefully no serious hiccups when I do the fuel pressure test and start up. https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...71383129_n.jpg https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...20500045_n.jpg Due to a friend's huge generosity I may be going to a reverse flow cooling system sooner rather than later! He said he has an automotive electric water pump and controller that is about ten years old but had never been installed/used that he is just going to give me! So I went down to NAPA and asked them what the largest diameter heater hose they keep in stock was and I was delighted to hear they had 50ft of 1" heater hose. So I went to the hardware store and picked up a pair of 1" steel water nipples and welded them to a pair of steel freeze plugs. Due to heat while welding, changing the inside shape, etc I may have to find a way to positively retain them in the block. Like a set screw or plate. I'll cross that bridge later. Here is a pair of mock up photos. https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...14042068_n.jpg https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...57879845_n.jpg Oh yeah, started on a control panel as well. Just have to wire it up. https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...55562833_n.jpg |
I was looking at my exhaust options. Basically either half the Skylark's old exhaust or half the Firebird's old exhaust. I cut the Firebird's old exhaust in half. I thought about leaving the dual part from the X-pipe back, but opted against that. I should have enough exhaust stuff to be able to cut out and replace the remaining X-pipe piece with a good piece of mandrel bent tubing. On the right is 2.5" Skylark mandrel bent exhaust from a Summit universal kit complete with Summit brand muffler. On the left is what came with the firebird which is 2.5" regular bent exhaust with Flowmaster mufflers, I think 40 series but don't know for sure.
https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...04717935_n.jpg I should be able to make some quick back to back tests on how each sounds. The Summit brand one bolted up. https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...57722300_n.jpg The Flowmaster brand bolted up. https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...26578868_n.jpg Wired up the control panel and megasquirt. It's pretty hokey but it'll get the job done. That battery is an old one out of my Skylark that I am pretty sure has a dead cell in it. I have the charger on it now and I think it'll get the job done just fine. It never up and quit on me, but would instantly drop to ~11.9 volts when the key was turned off, but would start fine the next day or even several later from 11.xx volts. https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...50522808_n.jpg https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...37387642_n.jpg The outriggers for some anti-roll support. I won't get too crazy with revving it if things look shaky. https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...24124667_n.jpg As the car sits right now waiting for rear gears and all the other work. https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...41414977_n.jpg |
You need a video asap lol... too many pictures of it sitting there just waiting to fire up!
What gear is currently in the car? |
Crossing my fingers for a tomorrow fire up. I'll test the ignition system then the crank and cam signals then pressure up the fuel system and if it doesn't leak I'll fire it up.
It has a chevy 8.2" with 2.73 gears. I'm waiting for a 3-series carrier to show up for the 4.56 gears I have. I bought a mini-spool for it too. |
For those not tracking this on another forum, I didn't get to fire it up due to the fuel rails not performing to expectation. Below are posts of the last two weekends.
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1/8 mile or 1/4 set up?
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Fun set up? The gears were $100 new (with bearings, seals and gasket) from a guy I know so I couldn't pass them up. The overdrive keeps it all livable.
I don't know, what do these engines normally trap in the 1/4? 5500rpm in 3rd is 94mph, which seems optimistic for a 1/4 mile speed. Wallace racing calculator thinks 91mph at 3500 lbs and 215HP. Both weight and HP are assumptions. |
Which cam again? E? My 255 with basically an H cam made 200 HP. 215 is the old "gross" HP rating.
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It will be an E cam. I'm starting this engine with a used but good 1bbl cam, then I'll swap in a new E cam and followers. This engine is also bored .030 over. I know the previous measurement was gross, but
Working for me: I have removed the water pump drag and will hopefully have better air fuel distribution with the EFI, tighter timing control, hopefully can give it good timing with the reverse flow cooling and I plan on putting some decent valve springs in it to "bump" the rpm limit up some. Working against me: What exhaust were you using? Headers? If so those would likely be more efficient than my setup. Also, this engine was thoroughly used and I simply pulled it apart, looked, and reassembled, so the valve seats and rings are plenty worn though I honed the cylinder walls and lapped the valves, there is no guarantee either will help or the rings will seat again. I'm thinking I'll probably get the car chassis dyno'd in spring just to satisfy my curiosity. Might have EGT sensors on each port by then too to further attempt to dial in the fueling. Of course the wheel HP will be less than flywheel, but it should still be interesting. I can lock the converter for the dyno run too. |
Yes, I was using Clifford shorty headers with the water pump and alternator. I found out that my engine started nosing over at 5000 rpm and it was not the valve springs. The stock H cam is really are not that big of a grind. These Sprints could use more cam in my opinion!
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I have a re-ground cam that is set up for when I build my "good" engine for the turbo that has a bit more lift and duration than the H. You've seen my exhaust system, not exactly high tech, but less restrictive than the OE setup. I've removed the back pressure plate as well. My turbo engine will also have a custom intake manifold with equal length runners.
Did you try using your adjustable sprocket to retard the cam any? That is supposed to drive the powerband up. It's a trade off of course, you'd lose bottom end power but gain peak and some upper rpm. Its something I am considering trying (I have one of your sprockets if you recall). With my 4.56 gears it might be something I try if I think it's nosing over to soon as I shouldn't have any low rpm issues. |
Actually, my numbers were best at 3 degrees retarded. I ran out of dyno time, but probably could have gotten a bit better numbers if I would have retarded the cam more. The engine wanted more cam!
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That's good to know! I'd stick the biggest cam I can find in mine, if I can just find a bigger one!
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Had start up today!
Here is a video of it going. YouTube made it fuzzier, but you can still get an idea of what is going on. The smoke around the fill tube is mostly the oil burning off from when the return tube popped out of the side hole. I still haven't decided exactly how I'm going to affix the return line to the tube. Rev's pretty good considering there is not throttle position sensor and isn't tuned very well. In this video I hadn't gotten to checking/calibrating the timing, and when I did it was 8* retarded from what is displated on the screen. It gets a bit warm, but with hardly any tune and almost no air flow on the radiator, I can't complain too much, it seemed to cool off once I got the timing and fueling squared away. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlwdR...Jo4BJ5Am4jH-sA Here is a video of starting it up and then the exhaust with the Summit universal muffler, a mystery Flowmaster muffler and then uncorked. It's not as loud as I would expect uncorked, but then again this is the small 1bbl cam in it. Still needs some tuning work. I can't tell if the smoke is fuel, oil or condensation from it being 32*F out. I re-used the piston rings in it, so I wouldn't be entirely shocked if it's oil. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4vxt...Jo4BJ5Am4jH-sA |
Sounds very good! It will sound louder with more compression and cam. Best of luck on the project!
Rob |
Thanks! Next wildcard is how well did I re-assemble the 200-4r I'm putting behind it!
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Installed the engine in the car today. I used the Ford brackets to lift the engine (http://sohcsix.yuku.com/topic/3103/A...e#.Upfsu8TqkzI). The first lift try one of the brackets started bending, so I set it back down and ran the chain through both loops on each bracket and it was good from there. Was fairly level and straight even.
The scariest part of all engine installs. https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...00915083_n.jpg Safely in! https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...79113821_n.jpg Lots of room on the sides compared to a V8. A turbo is going to look good on the passengerside there :yes: https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...90836160_n.jpg This is pretty organized for me. I need to set the radiator in the see where I'll mount the electric water pump. Now that I've installed the engine, I can see I have more than enough room that on my good engine I won't drill the head for the external oil pressure regulator, I will certainly use the oil plug at the rear of the head. https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...84427330_n.jpg The intake/exhaust side. I need to get a universal throttle cable that will reach the new location. I will still likely get a steel pulley wheel to support the 90* bend to the firewall. Likewise for the TV transmission cable. Oh, my exhaust system interfered with the motor mount, so I had to trim one of the catches off the motor mount that is there if the rubber separates. So I also used the old racer trick of drilling a hole through the motor mount to run a bolt with a lock nut at the other end, but not snugged up to the mount to keep the mount from separating. https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...62710272_n.jpg After getting the engine in I pushed the car forward and now it waits to get the transmission installed. https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...97471427_n.jpg |
And this showed up the other day =D
It sits a little far forward here because the back of the console doesn't fit between the backs of the seats, but I'll solve that. https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/...45344008_n.jpg Never let practicality get in the way of fun :) https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/...11989595_n.jpg |
Oh, I can update this from last weekend.
Welded a nipple to the oil fill tube and re-painted it. Was interesting when it caught fire. I expected the oil to catch fire, what I didn't expect was it set up an airflow that had a jet of fire out one end and even sounded like a jet. Dropped it in a bucket of water I had ready for it when it lit up more than I was comfortable with. Installed the engine in the car as well. I used the Ford brackets to lift the engine (http://sohcsix.yuku.com/topic/3103/A...e#.Upfl0MTqkzI). The first lift try one of the brackets started bending, so I set it back down and ran the chain through both loops on each bracket and it was good from there. Was fairly level and straight even. The scariest part of all engine installs. https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...00915083_n.jpg Safely in! https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...79113821_n.jpg Lots of room on the sides compared to a V8, but you guys know that ;-) A turbo is going to look good on the passengerside there. https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...90836160_n.jpg This is pretty organized for me. I need to set the radiator in the see where I'll mount the electric water pump. Now that I've installed the engine, I can see I have more than enough room that on my good engine I won't drill the head for the external oil pressure regulator, I will certainly use the oil plug at the rear of the head. https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...84427330_n.jpg The intake/exhaust side. I need to get a universal throttle cable that will reach the new location. I will still likely get a steel pulley wheel to support the 90* bend to the firewall. Likewise for the TV transmission cable. Oh, my exhaust system interfered with the motor mount, so I had to trim one of the catches off the motor mount that is there if the rubber separates. So I also used the old racer trick of drilling a hole through the motor mount to run a bolt with a lock nut at the other end, but not snugged up to the mount to keep the mount from separating. https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...62710272_n.jpg After getting the engine in I pushed the car forward to get the transmission installed. https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...97471427_n.jpg Spent half the day working on the center console and installing the shifter. Should be good to go now. I modified the rear of the console to fit between the seats. It is close enough. https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/...65935907_n.jpg Painted it black so it wouldn't contrast so much with the interior. It is all bolted in and the cable attached. https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/...28386596_n.jpg Here is a short video of what fun I expect to have. Yes I've sat there making engine noises for a while =D The transmission isn't installed yet. http://youtu.be/2oXdv86PZoI Got the transmission in and bolted up. I don't think the crossmember that came with the car was an original TH400 crossmember as it appeared to have been modified in the past, so I further modified it. I cut the mounting bracket off and re-welded it on in a place and notched the backside to add clearance around the transmission pan. I hooked up the shifter cable and adjusted it as well. The dipstick tube is ready to be installed, but I couldn't get the rubber plug out of the transmission, so I'll have to wait until I drop the pan to change out the governor gear and verify the adjustment of the TV cable, and then I'll pop it out from the bottom. I need to bend up some cooling lines now. One issue I have is the universal TV cable I got is too short by about six inches, and it was the longest cable I could find. I have an idea on how to lengthen it. I need to set the car on the ground and measure out what length I'll need for the driveshaft. I have two to pick from to shorten. https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...46614114_n.jpg Installed the TV correction cable bracket for Holley carburetors to the throttle linkage. I will adjust the cable once I lengthen the cable housing (assuming I'm successful). I'll tie the throttle wide open and drop the transmission pan and adjust the cable so the valve is pushed all the way in. https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...73157487_n.jpg |
What Cadillac starter did you use and is it the same dimensions as the original I am looking for something smaller than the stock one without loosing any cranking power
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I used a spare NAPA stock Buick 455 starter motor. I had a timing problem last spring on one of my 455's and cracked two nose cones, but the shafts appeared to still be straight and were collecting dust in the corner of my shop. So I bought an OHC nose cone off Jeff (Hamlin?) and installed it on the Buick starter motor. The motor itself is a hair larger than the stock OHC one, less than 1/4" bigger in overall diameter, so the opposite of what you are going for.
I don't know how any of the aftermarket small hi-torque starters will work. Some of them have a crap ton of adjustments on mounting block though. Considering some don't run any nose cone at all, a regular aftermarket GM issue one might work just fine on the OHC. Just do like you should for any aftermarket starter and check the tooth interference and have it shimmed accordingly so it doesn't grind or eat stuff. You can see it's a big bastard in this picture. https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...71383129_n.jpg |
High Torque Starters
Can be adapted, you will need to fab the mounting hardware.
All thread could be used if you can't locate longer bolts. I've not had to do this but have seen it. |
Got some more done today. Installed the throttle cable and TV trans cable. I welded on a bracket to the throttle cable bracket to help support the throttle cable's 90* turn. There is still some play in the cable so shouldn't tug on it with engine movement. I solved the "too short" TV cable by getting some very stiff walled fuel hose (high nylon content?) that one end of the TV cable housing would slide tightly into and with a few hose clamps successfully extended the line casing. I had the pan off the transmission and adjusted the TV cable for the appropriate WOT position. I also installed a green 10-tooth speedo gear on the governor to get the speedo closer to accurate (still a ways off).
Then I installed the transmission dipstick tube, which ended up way taller than I expected. So I cut it down, which that part turned out good, then I "thought" I'd get fancy and when I cut the dipstick down I thought I'd cut the bottom off with the Fill hatch marking and then weld it to the bottom of the further trimmed dipstick so it'd read correctly. It was all good right up until the part where I welded it and the dipstick got super brittle. D'oh! So I need to pick up a new dipstick but when I modify it next time I'm going to overlap the lengths and drill two holes and rivet it. For now, the short stick will keep dust out of the tube =P And then I set the car on the ground to get a measurement for the driveshaft and by some miracle my old Skylark driveshaft is the EXACT size I needed. I picked up a new set of u-joints and will install it tomorrow which will be the real proof. I started mocking up the exhaust as well. I still have to cut out the section of pipe where the X used to reside and do final fabricating of the collector to the rest of the system, but it's essentially in. I'm going to order up some 2.5" exhaust couplers before I go any further than I did today. The throttle cable and TV cable hooked up and adjusted. I painted the bracket black after grinding the plating off the bracket for welding on the support. You can see one of the hose clamps and extension hose on the TV cable in the background. https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...65574724_n.jpg https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...29842624_n.jpg The no bueno dipstick tube. https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...81420816_n.jpg Much better. Even bolted to the bellhousing bolt. https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...53137716_n.jpg The exhaust system. Here is the collector hanging down. The 400 engine had headers and the ball and socket coupler. I'm tempted to keep a 3-bolt flange there for quick removal. Haven't decided yet. https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...88508362_n.jpg Looking down the car. It's up on jack stands so the axle is hanging low. You can see the hole from the X pipe. https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...54984312_n.jpg From the side. https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...96040851_n.jpg I put the car on the ground to measure the driveshaft, and took a picture from the rear. https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...91987752_n.jpg Here is a picture of one of the motor mounts I ran bolts through. I used bumper bolts with the small head on the bottom and used all metal locking nuts on the top. I didn't run the nuts all the way down, they are about 1/16th of an inch from being seated to allow normal movement of the mount. I didn't have to do this to this mount since I didn't modify it, but by the time I 'thought' about it I had already drilled it. I cut half the safety catch off the other side to clear my exhaust collector, hence why I felt the need to do this. https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...30049536_n.jpg And here are a couple shots of my saw blade trigger wheel in the car. Conveniently the bottom is protected by the cross member. https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...33953632_n.jpg https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...10362790_n.jpg Just moving along. |
Hmm, I hadn't updated this in a while, but progress has been going. Started it up yesterday for the first time in the car even.
Dec 14, 2013. Quote:
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The highlights of today are, I heard the engine run, a couple of times, but it certainly wasn't smooth sailing. Long post warning. Started the day pretty good. Hooked the battery up and no smoke, sparks or pops. Headlights, tail lights and dome light worked, figured I'd check the stock systems first. Then tried the key. Found my trigger wire to my relay didn't power with the key. Not a big deal, found the needed power source. Then had the megasquirt and fuel pump relay power reverse. No problem, swapped plugs moving on. Things were looking good at this point. The system powered up, the megasquirt was reading the sensors, the engine cranked when pressing the start button. Though it seems the neutral safety switch is out of adjustment as it won't crank in park, but will in neutral. Won't crank in any of the gears so it somewhat works. Problem for later. Then it started to go down hill from there.... Started working on checking the fuel system and first the lift pump wouldn't prime, so I threw 7 gallons of fresh fuel in the tank (probably needed fresh fuel anyways) and used the shop vac to blow air into the filler neck and the lift pump promptly started leaking at both ends..... After tightening up the fittings, the filter, breaking at least one hose clamp, I tossed the pump and got a new one that had the fitting built in and a new filter. Only bathed in a gallon of gas in the process *blah*. Had a minor leak at the fuel rail and ended up moving the fuel pressure gauge to the regulator. By now it was mid-afternoon so I figured I'd skip filling the cooling system with water because I'd have to promptly drain it, and proceeded right to start up :thumbs: Started the car up a couple times for ten or so seconds at a time and topped off the transmission fluid as well as ran it through the gears (speedo works now! Didn't when I got the car), and while doing this had no problems. The engine started reasonably well and shut off when I turned the key off like it should until......... it didn't...... The big difference between when it was working fine and when it didn't was I rev'ed it up high enough to get the alternator charging, and when I turned the key off the alternator was feeding the system, but cut off from the battery because I had the charging wire on the wrong side of my master relay and then bad things started to happen. The engine didn't shut off, but didn't sound right either, and I hit the power switch to the megasquirt to kill the engine but it was too late, the damage was done. When I key'ed back on the megasquirt did not power up. I checked and the fuse was good, it had power on the wire going into it, but nothing. Took a sniff at it and it smelled burnt =/ Dragged it into the house and opened it up and yup, a few cooked parts, some obvious and some not so obvious. Using the obvious visual cue's was easy for the damaged parts, but I hooked it back up to the JimStim and started testing the power circuit to find the two bad diodes. Started testing and replacing parts until I had power at the processor pins, and turned out just to be the two diodes. Here is an obvious exploded capacitor https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/...71073550_n.jpg And an obvious burnt out power trace. (the copper color, it's not copper and doesn't conduct) https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/...80365849_n.jpg So I started troubleshooting. The exploded capacitor is essentially the first part that is installed when building a megasquirt and is part of the power circuit. So I started there. Fortunately I have some spare parts (not that any of them are exotic, but I was able to get it going again today). I replaced these four parts. The capacitor on the top right may not be bad, but I didn't trust the way it looked compared to the good ones. The bottom two diodes were toast, no conductivity in either direction. https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/...78674585_n.jpg New capacitors installed. https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/...80140828_n.jpg A jumper wire installed in place of the cooked trace. (it doesn't look pretty, but will work and is hidden in a case!) https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/...83875464_n.jpg So I went back out and took a video after the fact =D The phone picks up the fuel pump sound more than you can actually hear it in person. http://youtu.be/ljgzz8O__Ck |
It moves under it's own power! Shifted into second gear putt'ing around the yard, which is enough for me to say time to go get insurance and registration! A few minor things to work on today and it should be cruising this weekend!
https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/...60465640_n.jpg |
IT'S ABOUT TIME! ;) :D
Great to see it moved. Best of luck with road testing. |
Thanks! Road testing so far has gone well =D
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To keep the high tech theme going and give you guys and update of the fancy behind the scene's things I've been doing with it the last couple days.
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Got new tires for the Firebird today. Made a quick burn out video =D
http://youtu.be/vnEXKvgsKyA (Looks like I have a brake light out. Got to check the socket.) |
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If my curiosity gets the best of me I may. This is just the (used) 1bbl cam and I have a brand new E cam on the shelf with new followers. I want to make sure my external oiling line is reliable before using the better cam. I'll break the E-cam in with the single springs and then swap on some new springs/dual springs to really rev it up. Once I'm happy with how it's running (particularly at WOT) I might chassis dyno it.
The 4.56 gears I think help make the magic happen =D |
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Thanks. From what I posted on the yuku site about the upcoming turbo build.
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Also from the yuku site today.
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Got the water pump and electric fan controlled by the MegaSquirt now. It seems to reliably maintain temperature between 185*F-190*F now, so my heater should work decently now. With that I attempted to change out the blower motor but failed miserably at getting the inner fender well out. I did at least manage to get the blower motor in the car to quiet up.
Found a pretty significant vacuum leak in my home made Holley throttlebody. I had cut out a port on the base and forgot to plug an opening. I knew something was up since I had the idle screw backed all the way out and it still had trouble attaining a low idle rpm. Now it'll sit fine at 550rpm with decent timing, so idle control has been improved quite a bit. I have found another, smaller, vacuum leak at the #8 injector bung. I wonder if the lower o-ring has been damaged. I'm going to ignore it for the moment, though I might be tempted to spray some kind of sealant on it and see if I can get it to plug up. I think I found where the valves float, right about 5,800rpm =P Seems to blow oil out the dipstick tube at that speed as well though. I have the LT1 smog pump running as a vacuum pump with the breather, but it apparently isn't enough to bleed off the crank case pressure. Being as this is just a used engine of unknown conditions I put some paint on, I'm not surprised (the oil pressure at idle is pretty low too...but at least it rises decently fast). Here is a datalog of one of the runs hitting 5,800rpm in first and second gear. It hit's 60mph at ~5400rpm in second, and with the 175HP 1bbl cam it's still a pokey 11.8 seconds based on the datalogs. Backed it up a couple times. In first gear it's pretty noticeable that at about 5,300rpm the rate of engine acceleration slows down a bit (and slightly noticeable in 2nd, I shifted into OD at 4,600/80mph), so I'm thinking the HP power peak is right around 5,300rpm. Shifting at 5,500 netted a slower 0-60, so it seems its still worth pulling the extra RPM from an acceleration point of view. Click the link for a picture of the data log. It posts too small to see anything. https://scontent-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/...70816479_o.jpg |
Been following your post for a while now...way cool. As far as an extra filter, why not just fab up some kind of scoop that attaches to the underside of the hood that directs air to the air cleaner? With your abilities this should not be a problem. Good luck and I'll be watching for further updates.
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this is awesome
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