Removing Axles from a GM C Clip Axle - a How To.
 

This was an add-on job from my other thread about my Wilwood brake caliper jumping off at a traffic light.

A repair meant that I'll need to pull both the axles to get the backing plates off. (to replace one, and to check the torque on the second one - apparently Wilwood ships them pre-assembled, but doesn't torque them or use Loctite. When it falls off, they say "you should have taken it apart, torqued it and used Loctite.")

I had never opened a rear-end before, and was intimidated, but it turned out to be a piece of cake - much like when I rebuilt my carburetor.

Here's the step by step:

1. Place a nice, long drip pan under your rear end. (I used the one that I had from my carburetor rebuild. I can soak an entire Holley in it.)

2. Unscrew the rear cover.
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1596999331

3. When you remove the cover, the oil will drain into your pan. (and maybe splash on you a bit.) This is what you'll see:
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1596999432
There's a round spot you see in the middle of the differential, to the right of that big vertical gear. You'll need to remove this rod, but first you'll need to remove the bolt that holds it in. (The hex bolt seen to the right of it.) Working on that bolt, of course, will cause the gears to spin. YouTube said to use a pry bar to hold the differential still. I found it easier to use a properly sized socket on one of those bolts to the left of that vertical gear, and hold that still with my left hand while I loosened the other nut with my right.

Once that's done, the YouTube videos I watched said to use a magnet to remove this. I found just reaching to the back with my finger and pushing it out from there was easier. (it goes all the way through.)

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1596999902
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1596999988

4. Once removed, spin one of the axles so that you're looking at this. That horseshoe-shaped clip is the "C Clip" that holds in your axle. Push in the axle and reach in to remove that clip. (In the videos, that clip is magically pointed in the right direction for reaching in with pliers and pulling them out. Again, I found using my fingers easier.)
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1597000182

5. This is what the other side looks like with the C Clip removed.
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1597000341

6. Pull that axle out, and put it somewhere safe. (I set my rear wheels on the garage floor and stuck the axles upright in them.)
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1597000498

Yep - this work was all productive: That backing plate is bent and needs to be replaced:
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1597000558

Hope this helps!

More attachments.

Bent, indeed! Shame they didn't tighten it properly/inform the consumer to disassemble and thread lock it before putting it in service.

All the instructions say "THIS SHOULD ONLY BE INSTALLED BY A DISC BRAKE PROFESSIONAL." ... which sets up the reponse when it falls off on the road: "Well, if your professional was any good, he should have verified that everything was assembled correctly.

Nice work, Chris! Looking forward to seeing the reassembly phase.

I'll be the first to chastise you for using a torque wrench to loosen bolts...:cool:

I needed the longer handle to break those bolts free! ... and I’d never heard that we can’t use the wrenches that way. This is one of my 2 torque wrenches, but the only one that will loosen.

In the future, I’ll use my breaker bar. Less convenient because it doesn’t ratchet.

Ordered all the replacement parts on Summit today - about what the whole brake kit cost new!

You skipped the part where all the old smelly diff fluid floods down the front of your shirt onto the floor missing the drip pan entirely!!! LOL...

A good time to get a cover with a drain plug.

George

I usually dont get the fluid running down just sliding it out from under car I spill it then tramp in it! Thanks for the pics and Info.

Nice clear pictures. Sorry to hear of your bolt falling out, sounds as though wildwood does not like to take responsibility for much.
On another note, is that an Auburn Post unit?? If so make sure you put some additive in upon reassembly, or you could end up
with a noise that could sound like a damaged rear end.

It’s an Eaton posi unit. Yep - I’ve got the posi additive to put in. All the replacement parts are waiting to go back on - I just need to figure out how to get one of the parking brake cables released from the backing plate so I can swap it out.

I have been missing the car and am motivated to get it done, but it’s supposed to be 110 degrees today- so crawling around in the garage under the car will have to wait for another day.

110, YUK. Most park break cables have tabs that lock cable into backing plate, with slight pressure on cable one can press tabs in and remove cable.
Or one can put small hose clamp onto cable to keep tabs in, while pulling out thru backing plate. The is a tool for it, but I have never used one in 40 years
in the trade.

Re-assembly notes.
 

For Re-assembly, you’ll notice that the axle doesn’t slide right in. You’ll need to push down (towards the ground) on the lug nuts a bit to raise the other side of the axle and “thread the needle.” Funny how hard it is to find a you tube video with that little detail.