Ring end gap
 

4.155 bore 1/16" rings Speed Pro Classic file fits. I lost the sheet that came with them as far as recommended end gap. The block is filled halfway up the pump holes.
I have kinda settled on .020- .021 , What are some of you guys running for hard blocked engines. Dan told me it should be a extra .002 and maybe a bit more if running it hard. I would rather be a tad lose than tight.
Also, some guys make the 2nd ring a bit wider. Any of you guys do that ?

You want .0045" per inch of Bore for the top ring and .0055" per on the 2nd ring, plus the added .0015" to .002" gap per inch.

Be sure if you are gapping with a file and not rotating disc that you only file the ring pushing into it, not dragging out otherwise you may flake off the local Moly face from the ring and then it will ware like mad!

Also be sure to roll over the now sharp edge on the face of the ring from your gapping work so it does not scratch the cylinder, and in this same vein make sure that top and bottom corner is rolled over also.

Be sure to roll over or atleast check the ends of each oil rail at the gap for a sharp edge as many times it's these rails that leave the first signs of scratches on the walls.

Also Moly face rings should be broken in on dry cylinder walls, but I would get a tub of Total seal breakin powered to apply to the walls.

I used this chart that was supplied with the piston (Diamond) i have seen other manufacturers use different multipliers. What brand pistons are you using?
I would also add .0015-.002 like Stave suggested due to the block being filled.

Ross from Butler so they have those larger valve reliefs that I wish they did not have.
I have seen some charts like yours on the net, the Diamond chart has more options so I like that. Still have not seen one for filled blocks so I am going off conversations with Dan years ago that I can not double check (RIP Dan)
I would think that more Pontiac guys filled their blocks due to no aftermarket blocks being available for so long where the chevy and Ford guys just bought a race block.

I didn't add any extra gap for my 474. Its filled only to the bottom of the freeze plug. Thats really not much of the bore in my opinion.

My 462 is filled to water pump holes.
Twin turbos, rings gapped appropriately.
Ross pistons.
1/16 moly rings.
No extra gap added for filled block.
No issues.

The rings are Speed Pro R-9346 35
I have never used that powder, by "dry" how dry ? Not even a little 30WT on the pistons and rings sliding down the tapered ring compressor ? I have never used is so its new to me. I have always put a little Lucas on the skirts too.
So how dry ?

I don't understand them recommending the same gap for gas as alky. Typically alky runs less gap because it runs cooler.

True, not sure why they recommend that way.

Does anyone else have any experience with Total Seal Break-in powder ? I have asked a few friends that have been building engines for a long time but always put 30WT non-detergent on the pistons, rings and cylinder walls. It might be the best thing ever but breaking in a engine with .006 piston to wall and them being totally dry scares me. I do not want to wonder how long it is taking oil to splash on the cylinder walls while the pistons are making a bunch of racket on initial start up.
Read some reviews on Amazon but that is about it on that stuff.
2nd ring is cast iron so do you still use it with a single molly ring pack ? Not even any oil on the tapered ring compressor ?

I have not, but I am planning on using it this weekend. Still going to put a light coat of oil on piston skirt, but use the powder on the cylinder walls. Total seal sells both a 10W oil and an assembly lubricant for the piston itselft, and then recommends the powder for the walls. You can call them, 1-800-874-2753 and ask.

I may on my way to work this am.

Here are their instructions copy and pasted that came with the rings:

Quickseat® is the recommended cylinder wall lubricant for ring installation. Piston skirts should be lightly lubricated with AL-4 or engine oil. Remember excessive or improper lubricating of the rings may prevent them from sealing.

Final edit, it never occured to me how to install a powder to a metal wall?! I hope it sticks!

I use it on every motor I build. I wipe it on the cylinder walls and oil the rings/pistons prior to installation, it's difficult to use since it is so fine like powdered graphite. I haven't had any negative results. Used it on my race motor that is essentially broken in on the dragstrip and the motor is well sealed and never smokes.

I put some oil on the top few inches of the cylinder. Set my ring position and put some oil on my installer. Clamp it on the piston and put some oil on the exposed skirt. As you install the piston the oil control ring will wipe a fair amount off. I have seen people dunk the pistons in oil then put them in. Upon fire up I believe you will leave burnt oil deposits in your ring lands doing that.

Theres nothing wrong with putting an extra .002 in the gap if its going to make you feel more at ease. I dont think you need to though. I have .035 for gap in mine. No blow bye or burning of oil or any problems like that.
A good thing to do before you button it up though is after you're done filing each ring to size put it on the bench flat and measure the gap in its relaxed state and write it down.Do this to all of them. Then the next time you tear the engine down you measure all the rings again. Now you will know how the rings are faring and know if there callapsing or not .

I use a 3/4 filled block, I add .002" to the piston to bore clearance but keep the ring clearance to the manufacturers gaps as per the application (blown/turbo/nitrous etc). Without the extra 2 thou piston to bore clearance I was seeing some scuffing on the piston skirts.
I've always used a light coat of mineral oil (VR1 20/50) on the bores/pistons/rings, and always will, never had a problems with that.

I used the quickseat powder and AL-4 for the first time on this 434 build. If you clean the cylinders properly according to their directions, the powder turns the cylinder wall green. If the cylinder wall is still dirty, the powder will turn black/dark gray on the wall. A little goes a long way, just use clean fingers to apply to the prepared cylinders. Apply the lube to the wrist pins and skirts.

It was highly recommended by the TS tech line when I called to discuss the use of their AP stainless rings in this application. I did gap them on the wide end, from memory it was .024" top and .026" second. I have a single stage nitrous system, so I didn't want to risk butting anything.

Here is Total Seals video on applying the QuickSeat Dry Powder Lube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z66MXpVKc_0

I'm doing it this weekend, will let you know how it goes.

I use both the Total Seal powder and their ring and piston liquid lubricant on all the engines I build. I highly recommend it. One item you'll notice when you use those products is that the engine will generate very little smoke on initial start up versus coating the pistons with 30 weight oil as I used to do. The rings seat very quickly and I think pretty highly of the products. I've used them on probably 25-30 engines over the years now.