Disc brake conversion new brake lines
 

I've searched all over the internet and can't find the answer to this question. I have changed my front manual drum brakes to the scarebird conversion and I need to know what brake line kit to buy. I'm currently in the reassembly portion of my project and I don't have any brake lines. My confusion comes in with the front hard lines, the master cylinder and prop valve. It would seem to me that If I had a running car and only updated the disc brakes I wouldn't have had to change the lines. Therefore can I just order the stock replacements from ames and add the new master cylinder for disc/drum and prop valve? I've seen disc/drum prop valves online, and they seem to mount at the master cylinder, which tells me the routing of the lines would need to be different than it was. If anyone has run into this situation, what kit did you order/ what changes to the lines need to be made? I'm really having trouble with this visually cause I have nothing to go by. (Also lost all the pictures I took of these lines when I was disassembling!) I would like to get these installed, at least the line that goes across the crossmember from drivers side to passenger side, before I put the engine on the frame. Thanks.

Having done this recently to my '67 GTO, here's what I had to do;

1. you will need some sort of proportioning valve with front disk/rear drum. The OEM drum system has a distribution block on the frame below the cowling where the front and rear lines are split into the two front lines and rear line. I installed the new prop valve there so I had to redo those lines anyway.

2. The prop valve can be mounted up at the master cylinder (typically with power brakes in the earlier years) so those lines from the valve to the front and rear will need to be done also but those may be available since that was the OEM setup with power disks.

3. If your system is power disks, you may be able to get a line set for your car, but will probably need at least a union to mate the rear line from the prop valve to the existing rear line in the chassis.

I decided to stay with a manual system so I mounted the valve "kind of" in the original location, but had to make my own front lines and master lines.

That's what i did...i would suggest getting the right front line on the crossmember as you suggest..the OEM routing is tough to do with the engine in.

George

Some of us confuse the prop valve and distribution valve functions, but also use that part name to refer to the stock unit, which is a distribution valve. In your case, you probably already have a distribution valve that all your lines run from. If it's in the stock area (driver side frame rail below cowl) then it makes the job easier. Just order lines for a dual master brake cylinder and the lines for a stock front disc rear drum car. Mount your new master cylinder for the same set up. I got mine from Inline Tube and they worked well.

Thanks for the help guys. I'm pretty sure I have the correct proportioning valve, I bought from inline tube, it's mounted under the master cylinder. Scarebird, not sure if I have the large or medium kit? If you're referring to 14 or 15" rims I have 15's. The kit I bought about a year ago, and it came with the brackets and the aluminum hubs, I don't have the part number but it was order #7801.
I was looking at Ames part number , R180R, 1968 manual disc (front). Seems to me these would be correct in routing, and then I would maybe need to make up a few lines to get to the new prop valve. I'm going to keep doing some research today I'll report back anything I find.

So are you saying to keep the existing distribution block that's mounted under the cowl at the frame? Then run new lines from the new proportioning valve (mounted at the booster) to the existing distribution block?

Or extend the existing lines up to the new proportioning valve at the booster? I'm wondering because with my '66, I'd have to switch out the distribution block anyway, due to the single bale master cylinder for that year.

66sprint6, that is a good question, and if the info that I"ve found so far is correct, I don't think you can keep the original distribution block. I believe the new prop. valve doesnt' work properly in addition to the distribution block. Hope someone can clear this up also.

I agree that the adjustable valve is probably easier.

I did however use the static supplied proportioning valve with my disc conversion kit. Those little jumper lines from the MC to that valve are a nightmare. If I have need to remove those lines again I would buy adapter fittings and use flexible AN hose for that short portion.

Update, received brake line kit from inline tube, and I think I have it all sorted out now. I have to tweak a few lines once I get the frame and master cylinder installed. Also had to order a couple of brackets for the disc brake hose, for whatever reason the hose would not fit through the existing bracket to get the clip on it. I will attach pics when my computer stops acting up! By the way it came to my attention that I didn’t mention that it is a 68 gto that I am working on. Kevin

Yes, I figured that but got a little over aggressive with the die grinder and carbide bit and wasn't happy with how they were fitting after that. Was able to find the brackets for the 79 seville hose online for ten bucks.