79-81 Misc help needed
 

1. I recently purchased an 81 T/A 301 turbo. The car was broken into years ago, interior parts stolen, and basically vandalized. So the interior will be replaced. I looked at every parts house and I cannot find the little white clips that the slide into a groove on the shell that one of the lock rods slide back and forth in. Any idea what this part is called or where to get it?

2. As I understand it the 81 is the first year for the "computer" to control sensors in the engine bay and other things. Someone transplanted a 77 400 into the car. Can I install a 79 or 80 engine harness? I want to get rid of all the turbo wiring in the engine bay and the O2 sensor plug, TP plug end, and so on.

Thanks in advance!

Ignore the years..that goes for every ad Inline Tube as ever written.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-77-All...oY7h:rk:1:pf:0

Awesome Thanks!

Computer harness comes out seperate from the wires needed for crank, run, charge, guages, etc., etc.... Wires needed come through the bulkhead/firewall connector just like older cars. Computer harness has a seperate hole that it comes through.

Clay

Hello Quick Siver I read your reply to the guy asking about wiring thought you might help me with a issue I have I have a Trans Am believe to be a 1981 looks like the computer wiring was changed? The engine harness at the fire wall was cut and new wires spliced one inch from the plug that connects at the firewall. I want to get a new harness but not sure which one to order.My question is are all the plugs the same as far as plugging into the firewalls receptical. I have bought the wiring schematics for 1979,80,81 don’t jive with the harness I have.

Saw your other post. Need to figure out exactly what you've got and what, if anything, has been changed on the car.
Computer Turbo cars had a seperate harness from the firewall plug/bulkhead connector.

Clay

One more thing......
I bought a power window switch from Ames, under the switch there is a black plug that pushes onto the switch. My plug is all crappy and melted from a previous owner from trying to solder it. Do I try to mount the wires to the studs on the back of the switch? Does anyone sell a replacement plug?

You can source pigtail plugs but they are not cheap. Mine was the same, all factory wiring burnt and previous repairs of trying to solder wire strands onto the terminals, no plug in sight.

When I rewired my windows with relays several years ago I also replaced the factory switch with new, used stud contact terminals similar to what would be inside the plug which I didn't have, and soldered these on and sealed with heatshrink. I then added a 5-wire connector plug below the switch to join to main harness.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7876/...cea5af33_b.jpgPower window switch clips1 by Aus78Formula, on Flickr

Cool, ask and you shall receive!!! So you have a custom plug a little ways down from the switch? Just a 5 wire male/female deal? Thanks!!

This one works perfectly. It replaces the melted connector that plugs to your pw switch. Just splice it into your wires. The wire colors don't match the originals, but I'll put up the color to color match below. I'm using it on mine: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-1967-C...l/401041795348

The left side colors are the new switch colors, and the right side are the original harness colors.
Dk green = blue
White = brown
Red = pink
Yellow = blue w/white
Lt green = tan

They've come down in price. And would have wanted another 30 in postage for me at the time.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7904/...87d1b6f2_b.jpgFirebird custom power window plug rewire by Aus78Formula, on Flickr

You guys are the cats nut sack!!!! Since were answering one more...

The car has power locks and not gonna bother with them yet. If you yank the door lock up it is tough to pull. I assume because you have to move the solenoid as well. Can I just remove the rod that goes from the solenoid to the lock?

I don't see why you couldn't. The rod isn't necessary if you're not using the pdl actuator.

Yes, door manual lock rods are separate. Simply remove what isn't wanted or not in use and they will free up as per one without power locks.

Actually, I'll add a pic in case you haven't looked inside door yet. Since the motor is likely riveted to the door shell, you'll need to flex the rubber bush in the head of it to one side and withdrawn the rod out of it, unhook at top.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7808/...7acf0e03_k.jpg20180328_165242 by Aus78Formula, on Flickr

Pfft Steve jumped me while I was uploading pics, that's the sort of guy he is!

Awesome guys.......thank you! I will have a few more!

LOL :D

Also, if it's still stiff after removing the actuator rod, you would probably need to clean and lubricate the door latch mechanism, and work it up and down until it works freely.

I ordered 80 seat covers standard interior in camel tan. Does the standard interior have the seat backs? Thanks again, you guys are saving me tons of time!!!