1963 389 oil starvation
 

I have a 63 grand prix that's been sitting since 1970! It was parked then due to the rocker arms wearing through to end of the valve on 6 cylinders. The rocker studs are clogged. But it's actually the oil channel under the rocker studs that are clogged with oil sludge. My question is, has anyone ever removed the plugs on the sides of this channel and cleaned it out?

The studs themselves are clogged and there is no real fix for that situation IMO. Just replace the pushrods with later versions with holes down through them and the valve train will oil through the pushrods. You can also tap the holes in the block where the heads/studs get their oil and put plugs in them but it really isn't necessary.

fyi I have had several sets of old heads that use stud oiling vatted over the years and the vatting never thoroughly cleaned out the studs or the circuits which feed them.

Since you’re going to be replacing rockers be sure to get some ‘65-‘66 rockers with the spurt hole at the pushrod end to oil the rockers and the rest of the valve train parts inside the valve cover.

61-63, I took the worst stud out and it was clear. However, the tube directly under the stud was clogged with gummed up oil. 63 used hollow push rods. The stud holes just oil the stud ball and rocker/valve stem area. I may just remove all the studs and clean the chamber. I have yet to be able to find replacement, hollow studs thats why I thought about removing the chamber plug and cleaning it out. But the plug looks odd and not sure I'd be able to find a new plug for it. Thanks for your input. I'd rather not install solid suds just yet..

b-man, I thought about using rockers with oil holes, I'm just concerned about solid studs and the oil that will be pumped into the chamber and not going anywhere. Ive heard that will cause oil starvation to the lower end..Not sure how, but read that

There is NO issue just replacing the rockers with 65-66 rockers.I have done it a ton of times.FWIW,Tom

The fact that your oil passages to the rocker studs are now clogged will not cause any oiling problems in the lower end of the engine.

There’s no need to remove the rocker studs you currently have. They’re exactly the same as on later engines with press in studs that oiled through the pushrods, the oil holes were still drilled in them but weren’t used.

Now that you’re going to oil the rockers through the pushrods your engine will oil just like any other ‘65 or later engine.

What size are the clogged holes???

No way whatsoever to clean holes???

Just asking. I obviously have zero knowledge of the older awesome 389's and such.
I wish Tom Wilhite would be a computer user!!!

Doesn't hurt to just let the galleries under the studs stay clogged if you are replacing the rocker arms with ones that have the spurt holes.

I had ONE stud that was clogged on my '57 347 V8. I could hear the rocker arm squeaking. I took the rocker off and applied brake cleaner through the hole in the side of the stud. Also used a small drill bit to help clean it out. Of course I only got the short passageway to the center of the stud. Let it sit for an hour or two, applying more brake cleaner a few times. Re-assembled the rocker with a dab of assembly lube around the rocker ball. Started it up and was greeted with oil coming out of the stud. Kept working for years.

This wouldn't solve the problem of a clogged gallery though.

If you have a lot of spare time you could have the head tanked, then pull the studs, clean them with a drill bit and re-install them. A lot of work with questionable results.

Here are a couple of old threads that have lots of good info about stud-oiling Pontiacs.
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=702113
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=441261

To answer your question:
Yes, I've totally cleaned out a couple pairs of early ('57-58) heads. No different from cleaning any other cast engine piece. Cup-style plugs are available in any needed sizes.

However, I agree that it's not necessary in your case.

My engine currently oils by both methods. Either works and good luck finding replacement rockers without the squirt hole.

And if the heads are off anyway have them tanked with the oil feed hole plugs out. Then use brake cleaner like Bill Hanlon suggests with drill bits and long round brushes through the feed hole and be sure it is cleaned. Liberal use of air pressure to force stuff out the holes. Put it back together (may need a valve job anyway) and it will oil by one method or the other. Maybe both. I doubt it will have much adverse effect on oil pressure.

If you insist on using the rockers with out the oil hole I think I may have a set of nos ones I just have to find them. If I find them they are yours free.

No way I would run non hole rockers without removing the heads and tanking them.JMO,Tom

"good luck finding replacement rockers without the squirt hole."

If anyone else is looking, I have good used rockers & press in studs. I cannot match his price though!

The holes in the studs are easily cleaned. But the clogging is in the gallery below the studs. Theres one small allen head screw in the gallery, but thats it

Mike, that would be great!! I'll definitely need to pay you something for them. Thanks

Yes! Interested. Let me know what you need for them. Thanks

Thanks for all the great replies. I will need rockers...at least 6 of therm. I guess I could weld up the oil hole in them..I dont mind putting screw in rocker studs, but I dont want adjustable rockers being the engine is stock and wont require head or deck resurfacing. The problem is, the stud boss will have to be ground down approx. .25" to obtain the correct stud height. I'd rather just install hollow pressed in.

I think they can still be bought on the internet.Tom

Ive looked everywhere, I cant find any