Double Beadlocks
 

Last years I ran on a marginal track for the first time with M/T 275 Pro’s. I was concerned about tires moving on the rims as I have always run slicks with screws. As I figured, over the course of the day they moved a 1” total. I’m looking to upgrade to double deadlocks and am curious if anyone has had issue with clearance on the inside of wheel? Stock suspension and wheel wheels with rear drum brakes. Wheels will be 15x8 w/ 4” back spacing.

I don't think you will much if any people running double beadlocks with drum brakes. Did you try using Hi-Tack to glue the tires to the wheels?

Ive been 1.20 60ft with just hi-tack glue and tires have moved at all

Not sure about the fitment issue, but also consider the double bead lock wheels will add around 10 lbs. of rotating weight to the rear of your car. We ran them because required by class rules and they work great. Change tires easily without equipment. But generally not used unless absolutely needed or you just love the looks. I saw on-line from a beadlock vendor where titanium bolt option can knock 2 lbs. off that weight. But 72 titanium bolts would be incredibly expensive I imagine.

Thank you for input. I’m currently using the Hi-Tack. Car is 3220lbs and I’m 210 so 3430lbs race wt. 748hp & 633ft. lbs. with a TH-400 w/ no break.
The track I was on was terrible at best and I’m worried about a real track like Norwalk. The last thing I wanna do is add more rotating wt. and drop $2,600 + on wheels.

On our older car, we ended up using double screws, 16 per side. I did the layout and drilling on the mill so they were concentric and looked pretty decent. Also carefully de-burred them. I used the hard grade 8 screws to thread through the wheels. Then after a year or so switched to stainless screws which looked better. The stainless screws were not hard enough to self tap through the wheels. The extra screws really helped, especially at low tire pressures when the sidewalls really wad up. The lumps in the sidewalls were much smaller with 16 screws than 8. We only ran about 7 PSI in a 15" wide tire.

In your first post you said you think the tires moved an inch on the rim with no transbrake and Hi-Tack? That seems a little strange. You are running 18 psi?

That’s correct, I did drop tire pressure to 15psi because the track was bad. 30-40ft our started to haze tires a bit according to buddy’s at the track. I’m new to the Pro 275’s so I’m playing with what works best with foot breaking the launch. Perhaps the launch I’m expecting with is the issue and not the rims at all? I have always been a slicks guy but like the stability and car also see’s a far amount of street time.

In my opinion, the key to the drag radial is to drive it into the ground and hold it there. That is why you will see guys with double adjustable shocks with loose on extension and tight on compression in the rear. Even when I was bracket racing I ran the radials at 18 PSI so I would stay with that. You will need to change your suspension over a little and get the tire applied as best as possible. A bias ply setup will not work for a radial tire and same goes in the other direction.

Good Advice.
I ran up to 19.5lbs in my 275 radials and have never had one spin on the rim with Hi-Tack. I run the Pro Bracket Radial now and have run them anywhere from 18 to 21lbs.
Shocks are loose on extension and tight on compression. Have been 1.33 60ft at 3750lbs. with stock suspension.

Great advise fellas and thank you. You saved me a lot of money that could be put somewhere it will benefit. As another winter up grade I went with TRZ valved Afco double adjustable shocks front and rear. I will dismount the tires and purchase new Hi-Tack give it a shot. 👍🏻