POS Fram Oil filter
 

I just broke in my new 455 engine. It has a Melling RAIV oil pump that was set up by Greg Merrick. Oil pressure was steady at 80 lbs most of the running time which was 1 hour. Engine ran flawlessly and the new solid cam was broken in without incident.

I pulled the filter off and cut it off to check for metal specs. None found, clean as a whistle.. I did find a surprise though...

I have heard bad things in the past about these filters, and when we went to the store this is all they had. Its funny, as we actually made a joke while buying this filter. Go figure. Anybody seen this before? Thing looks like it went though a meat grinder.

Yep, many ordinary grade frams have been reported to collapse internally and take the engine with them.

Have seen that before!! Fram = POS!! there is not half as much filter media in Fram filters as there should be. I allways use NAPA filters, # 1049. WIX is also an excellent filter.

how does that happen from oil pressure? I bought the Fram PH25 for my 350 rebuild and I think I am going to take it back! Thanks for the Picture *68lemans462*

NAPA filters are made by WIX.;)

Is your bypass blocked ? Many times if the filter cant pass enough oil volume and use the bypass the filter media will suffer no matter what brand it is..
More so with a new motor that has assy lube in it and fired up and brought to 2000-2500 right away.
I toasted a Lee oil filter same as this Fram when i used a bypass block off.. Now i just use a slightly stiffer spring on the bypass.

I put a 3/8" NPT plug in the bypass per Merrick's suggestion. I picked up a couple of WIX filters today at Carquest. I only bought the Fram because it was after 8:00pm and checker was the only place open... Never again.

Blocked bypass new motor first fire up assy lube cold goes directly to filter and it doenst want to pass through it starts to collect and reduces the total area for oil to flow through then the filter element is to restrictive then is pushed aside.
Yeah you can make the argument that the Fram has less area to start with but this can happen to any filter when the bypass is blocked and the element becomes restricted for any reason..
Its there for a reason and that is if the filter cant pass enough oil it will route around it to feed the engine if it isnt there then the media takes a hit.
Whenever i use a spin on stock housing i just use a stiffer spring on the bypass.

The NAPA filter is a Wix Filter. NAPA bought them out a short while ago. I just found out when I went to NAPA to get a WIX filter and was told that they could not order new ones, but NAPA was the same design. They pretty much said that all that happened is that they put the name NAPA on the WIX Filter.

Really...was your source reliable ?? While it's true NAPA filters have been made by WIX for years I find it hard to believe WIX sold out to NAPA.
I'll have to check that out !!
PS: I worked for NAPA as a sales rep. for 10 years.........cut up many filters as a sales tool.

.........And I will not even use a FRAM on my lawn mower...
They are made of cardboard ends on the media with string tied around the media....WTF ?? :confused2

What about K&N oil filters?

I knew NAPA's were made by wix, just suggested both because both are not allways available everywhere. I also heard NAPA bought wix. Cant confirm though. The plugged bypass explaines the collapsed filter. I have not had a K&N oil filter apart so I can't comment on them, but from my experience, the K&N air filter is great for the track/ short time use but should not be used on a daily driver. They dont get regular service & will bypass dirt into the engine. My shop does at least 1 engine a week that had been "dusted" using a K&N air filter. I have been using the NAPA #1049 (long) filter on my 61 Tempest since day one when I rebuilt it, has been 9 years & over 100,000 miles since the rebuild!!

Those and the identical Mobil 1 filters are the best made. As far as not for use on Daily Drivers, that's horsesh!t. I put 37K miles on 1 LS1 and 13K on another LS1 using those two filters exclusivly. They are hands down the best made.

The wix are good as are the Napa's.

Frams, well, we all see it.


http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corve...lterstudy.html

Old but VERY GOOD link. I suggest you all look at it.

With my high pressure pump and bypass plugged, I wanted a stout filter. The K&N HP-2003 fit the bill.

Every six months or so - this same discussion comes up. I just recently celebrated 10 years of nothing but FRAM HP2 filters in my race car. The bypass is plugged, the car has over 100lbs..cold and 60-80 warmed up, depending on RPM. I race about 15 weekends a year. I have broken rods, broken blocks, ran on oil/water mix for almost a whole season, lost roller lifters, etc., but have never had any bearing or oil pressure issues with the FRAM HP2!! If you pay $3.99 or $4.99 for a filter, you get what you pay for, and not many will withstand that kind of pressure. Cheap filters suck, but please don't trash the HP series as I know they work, or I wouldn't use them!! - Bill -

I've been using Fram filters for over 20 years and have never had a problem with them.

went 8.50's with my ford nothing but Fram HP even on new build break in.never had a problem but have seen the ph series collapse like that.Sal

we always use wix, just bought 6 from regular auto store,last week still came in wix box??and they went and got them from their whse

the way that element looks might explain why you didnt really find any metal in it LOL. You should always find a tiny amouont of metal in your filters....seems all the vehicles I have owned I have chopped the filters on just to see if there is any metal in them and everyone of them had some metal which I feel is normal wear that the filter is picking up[ :)
Grats on the new break in.
Mike

I use k&n filters on my cars.