455 Rebuild Recap Progress - pics
 

I am making progress. I am very slow, and this has taken over 2 years. I have learned many things from this board and it's members. Having last built a motor for my International in 1980, I am a certified Rookie.
Yes I cold have sent the motor out but what fun is that? :)
I wonder how many other folks second guess themselves when building a motor to the point of taking things apart? Is that what people really mean when you hear
"Going in a different direction"? :)

A few reasons it has taken me so long, besides the time to get some good parts from busy folks:

- I learned about processes, parts and issues as I was building it.
And every time I had parts together, I'd learn of something I should of or could of done or checked.

I look at it this way, I have futzed with everything on this block 3 times, so I know the on next motor I'll have that much more confidence, and will know what to buy and do the first time. It was like 3 rebuilds...

Main thing was after becoming uneasy about the Cam break-in..I changed plans from hydraulic to hydraulic roller cam, since I had a few bucks saved at the time, I went with it. So apart again..

I then discovered 2 issues that needed to get fixed. And that required R&R and time.. Got past that and now have everything sorted out. I think..

#500813 455 Block
Crank #500698 Turned .010 / .010 polished
Main Journals measured 3.2389
Rod Journals measure 3.2392
FM 3/4 groove Performance Bearings
Modded Thrust bearing
Graphtite Rear Seal

Speedpro forged engine kit from Summit
L2359F Pistons .040

PPR 5140 Rods Floating
Arp 7/16 Bolts
Installed Rod side clearance is / .016
Rods Torqued to 75 ft. lbs.
Checked using stretch gauge / .005 stretch
Plastigauged clearance at .0015 (Wasn't confident in torquing rods in my vise to check clearance)

Billet timing chain set from PPR
Composite Distributor Gear
Mellings 45 Oil Pump, Cleaned and inspected
Hardened Oil Shaft from H/O

5C heads
101 CC
7/16 ARP screw in studs
KRE Guide Plates
Bucher Special Comp Cams Roller Cam from P-Dude
Comp Roller Lifters
Scorpian 1.5 full roller rockers
Comp Pushrods
Elongated Pushrod holes
Ferrea F5144 valves 5.110 long
Springs - Single (unknown) checked at #125 on the seat 1.680 installed height

Rebuilt HEI BOP Composite Gear

Stock 70 Intake
Hedman 28150 1 7/8 headers

Machine work:
Bored .040
Measured at 4.1912 / .003 piston clearance
Pistons skirts 4.18825 / Recommended minimum clearance of .0025
Block Decked to true up - .010 / Deck Height 10.239
Pistons out of hole .004 (leaving that at this point)
Felpro 1016 head gasket (.039 crush)
Balanced with Stock GM Flywheel and balancer
New GM Partsdirect Balancer
Line Honed
Main Bores measure 3.4389
Thread holes chased
H/O Plug kit installed
Brass Freeze Plugs
Block cleaned twice - Galleys cleaned
Using a Crank Scaper only, not installed yet

Torqued Mains to 100 / 120 using ARP lube
I originally had ARP studs and decided to use stock bolts
Set Thrust at .005 end play
Dip stick Tube installed

Today I hope to install the Cam, timing chain and install the heads and check pushrod valve stem geometry and piston valve clearance possibly (with clay).

I bought a degree wheel and am going to learn how to degree the cam today.
I need to make a "pointer"
Here are some pics of the rebuild at various points:

more 455 pics
 

More Pics

More 455 Pics
 

more pics

More 455 PIcs
 

More pics. Tapered installer was far easier for me. I also ended up not cranking it as tightly as I started it still worked great as long as you tap it down between taps on the piston and hold it against the deck.

more 455 pics
 

More Pics.
I oiled the tapered installer and bore with 30 wt. I only put EOS on the skirts. WD-40 cleaned and blew air on the rings then WD-40 on the rings again. CLocked the rings so the gaps were about 60 degrees apart.

More 455 Pics
 

Few more. P'Dude modded the Thrust for me. That width is one of the NON thrust bearings. FM Performance 3/4 groove.

note * I mistated my Valve Springs, they are double springs..Isn't the inside spring a Damper?

Need Cam Woodruff Key..
 

OK, Went to install the Cam tonight and I realized I sent my Woodruff Cam Key when I sold my Crower cam.. DOH..
Anyone have one they can sell me? Don't know if its particular key, or if I should spend time looking at my hardware store since I don't have one to compare to.
At least I cleaned the Cam, pushrods and found all my head studs.

Should I install the cam gear to help hold the Cam as I install it?

I have two concerns: Your oil pump you listed as 45lb why would you run less than the Melling 60lb pump? Also, the valve springs are very crucial to performance and camshaft life please make sure you have a quality set of dual springs as the "dampner" doesn't qualify as a dual setup. JD

James,
It looks like you will have a great combination with those parts. I am working on a similar build.

When I was shopping for pistons, I was considering the speedpro pistons, but was told that I couldn't get them in a "floating" piston, only pressed. I ultimately bought forged SRS pistons from Ken at PPR, because I already had the floating rods.

Were you able to get the speedpro in floating, or did you have someone machine them for spiral locks?

Again, nice job on the combination, and thanks for posting the pics!

Good Points.Thanks!
Springs:
The heads were built by a very well known Pontiac Shop. I trust that they are a good spring set. I took one off and my machinist tested it at 125 open seat pressure / and no coil bind to over 320 (I would have to check my notes)
Could the colors on them tell you what they are? You cant really ID springs by sight huh..

I dont know much about valve springs to be honest. I have read the many spring threads here.. I thought that the inside spring was always more or less a dampener?

The Oil Pump
I just went and looked. It is a Mellings M54D / with the hardened shaft. I still need to deal with the pickup. Stake it, weld it screw it...

I mistyped that part. I opened it, cleaned it, smoothed the bottom plate on fine sandpaper on a piece of glass, checked clearance, and checked the ball seat for debris or obstructions.
Thanks a lot for the critical questions.

Correction.. Pistons are PRESSED Pins... Sorry 'bout that...

And, How could I overlook that it will be topped with an 800 CFM Cliffs Q-Jet!
Thanks Cliff.

I was going to run it with the Stock Fuel Pump and lines.
Its a street car, daily driver 20 miles a day.
I'll see how things go before modifying fuel delivery.

You can't go wrong there! I also have a Cliff's Carb that I can't wait to use. I was amazed at all the work he put in to mine.

I can't wait to hear how your combination runs when you are done. Keep us posted.

The springs in the head pic above are dual springs w/o the damper.

Damper springs are the thin "flat" springs,not the round wire springs.

And judging from the stated tensions,I'd say they are likely crane or Lunati springs.

But I'll admit that would just amount to a WAG really.

Crower's spring for that IH (#68405-16 @ 1.70" ish) would usually have a slightly lower seat pressure than stated,but it's not out of the relm of possibillity that they may be crower springs I guess.

And the comp #995-16 spring is a dual w/damper,,,so...

Springs should be fine with that sorta cam,JMHO.

But you may wanna ask the Dude to be 100% sure.

HTH.

SC-
Thanks for the info. I read all your Valve Spring posts.
P-Dude verified I'd be good at those pressures with that cam given I verify the .060 minimum seal / retainer clearance at Max Lift. I will.

Good job.........
 

James,

You are doing an very thorough job of checking the parts fitment & clearances and the assembly. Careful attention to details will pay dividends in performance gains and the longevity of the completed engine.

Les

I finally fired up the Q-Jet that Cliff built for me yesterday. It's a HUGE improvement in drivability over the Edelbrock 1406 that the previous owner put on the 400.

Couple of questions:

Is the rod side clearance supposed to be .016" with those forged rods? My Eagle H-beams had .025" side clearance?

What piston ring gaps are you using?

.025 is Perfect, .016 is kinda tight But you need to remember that the 6.8 BBC eagles are Chevy rods and .005-10 narrower a piece which is why you have more side clearance than him fwiw, Nice 455! any port work done to those heads? either way it will be a Tire roaster!