Shaker scoop rivet/bolt kit???
 

I'm not a fan of my 77 shaker scoop it sits low on the L78 400 and I don't care for the hard center ridge. I picked up a nice 78 scoop and will shelve the 77 and if I ever sell the car it will go with it. So my question is has anyone used the rivet headed bolts for the flange and also can you see the nuts on the bottom once installed. My rivet gun won't apply the factory style rivets I also see for sale. Thanks

so the 78 scoop is just the fiberglass shell without the metal bottom plate?

as for seeing the nuts on the bottom, if you lower your head low enough you will see them, but for the average person just standing in front/side of the car you shouldnt see them since the scoop sits pretty low.

I used aluminum lawn chair screws/nuts. They do have a slot on the top but about the same OD and very flat. Bottom piece"nut" is basically a sleeve with a built in flat washer as the "nut". If you want to get real anal on appearance you could put a dab of epoxy on the slot and head.

Get a complete shaker.

I used the rivet bolts on one of mine, since I wanted to remove and restore the adapter plate. They worked well and look good. You'd never see the nuts unless you remove the shaker to look under it. Put some lock-tite or a little glue on the nuts to keep them from loosening.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e6a5da95_c.jpg8-14-19 - Copy by grand73am, on Flickr

Thanks good to know and the locktite makes good sense'

Thanks for the suggestion Skip

No 78W I picked up a very nice scoop from a 403 car so I'm going to remove the scoop and mount it to my 400 frame. Thanks.

I did but it's from a 403 not a 400 thanks burd

I actually used a 77 metal base and omitted the 1/4" plastic spacer between the scoop and metal plate on a 78 scoop so I had and extra 1/4" clearance between the scoop and the hood for a thin carb spacer. And yes that 77 ridge was ufgly!

Thanks for the info, and I agree