Best one wire alternator
 

CVF racing alternators are junk. Had two fail in the last 3 years. The only good thing is the lifetime warranty but I don’t want to keep changing alternators. What should I get?

We have been running a Power Master 8060, 70 amp alt. in the Bird since 2006. No issues ever. Has no problem keeping up with the electric fan, electric water pump and electric fuel pump. This is a mini alt. which in our case we needed because we had to mount on the passengers side of the block to get clearance from the water pump. It may not align properly in the stock position. We got a special bracket and even then I had to shim here and there to make it line up. I am sure Power Master makes a similar unit in the original GM configuration.

A 3 wire alternator, properly installed.

Seriously, the only alternator I've ever had trouble with, in 40 years of working on cars, was the aftermarket, poorly designed, poorly implemented, poorly installed, poorly understood, poorly charging, often overused, 1 wire alternator.

very happy with powermaster, both alternator and starter.

I went through a few, needing high output at idle. Best I found below:

https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=551

Powermaster both starter and alternator. Quality products with great customer service.

Some of the best information on one wire vs 3 wire charging systems for folks looking to know more about the subject.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml

Tuff stuff really good. Power master for me no good

I just buy the kits that upgrade factory alternators and rebuild them myself. You can build them to a certain voltage output youre looking for and it's a simple job. Comes with everything you need and good quality parts.
I forget the name of the company but I'll look it up when I get home.

We've talked about it before on here in the past.

This right hurrr ^ is why to use the 3 wire. Remote voltage sensing and clean regulation across the load/RPM range is why you want the 3 wire. Retaining the idiot light is neat too.

I use the CS130 alternator. It'll do 45 amps at idle and 100A at 2000 engine RPM, depending on pulley ratio. It's kept up with aftermarket ignitions, stereo, nitrous bottle heater, electric fans, gauges, etc. It comes down to wiring it correctly and not overheating it, it'll last. The CS130 is widely available and not terribly expensive, vs some aftermarket options.

Totally agree. I won't use a "1-wire".

Have been building and useing SI alternators since my High School days. We have converted every old tractor in our line-up from 6 volt to 12 volt using them. I converter every single older vehicle I owned to them as well. They are stoopid simple to rebuild, no special tools needed. On some set-ups you'll need to install a diode to keep them from back-feeding.

I'm NOT a fan of the one-wire variants. Tried a couple over the years and found that it is just better all the way around to use the standard 3 wire system. On retro-fits we simply jump from the BAT terminal on the back to T2 on the regulator. The switched wire goes to the T1 terminal.

If you are replacing an older alternator with an external regulator you can jump the wires in the harness and leave the external regulator in place for the original look.

Google "GM SI Alternator Wiring Diagram" and there are some good photo's of how to hook one up.

For parts there is a source here in Ohio I've been using for many years that sells complete rebuild kits with USA parts in them. Never had a single issue with any of those parts to date.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/193306550715

https://www.ebay.com/itm/191103912028

My understanding of alternators and the charging system in general is limited, but iirc the reason we went with a one wire setup in my son's Bird was because with the battery in the trunk and a shut off switch mounted on the rear tail light panel, when the switch is turned off then current from the battery as well as the alternator is also shut off. This is important in an accident situation where the engine might still be running and the alternator still sending current to the electric fuel pump. Even if none of the fuel lines were compromised in the wreck you don't want the fuel pump running. So, my question is can the 3-wire system be setup in the same way so that at the flip of a switch, one that is easily accessible to the track safety crew, the current from the alternator is in essence disabled?

Some years back when pick a part in SoCa. was full of rear wheel drive cars i very often saw cars people gave up on after putting new parts on alternators with shine and a new sticker, starter motors, carbs,

I snapped up about 4 of the 12SI units for like $12.00 a piece and when they need anything i just put a kit in them and roll... cherry picked the larger field coils too.

Its tough to beat Powermaster for a reasonably priced made in USA part.

The only problem Ive had, and this goes for both 1 and 3 wire alternators, is its easy if you have one of the aftermarket brackets setups like I do to overtighten.

With the heim joint type tightening mechanisms, Ive messed up the front bearing on two different alternators. You expect that heim to get hard to spin when its tight, but it give you a pretty good mechanical advantage and you can get them pretty darn tight just with your fingers.

I'm very happy with my Mechman.

Powermaster went thru a reorg/buy-out or something, there were a few years there where they were junk. I had problems with them.

At some point I was talking to someone at Powermaster and they said they did an overhaul of their' process and are again quality-oriented, so decided to try one. Have had very good service out of them lately.

There are specific ones you have to use though, there are a few that are still not that good. I know the one I use (47293/47294) and have had them in 3 cars for years work very well.

The problem with the CS130s is the bearings are small, and they fail if you have too much or too little belt tension. Too much overloads them (bearing failure), and too loose super-heats the shaft (windings/brushes/regulator failure).

A thing that's also nice is that the Powermaster alts can be wired 1 or 3 wire, in case you 'need' to switch or match your existing wiring/setup.

They also have units that are not in the catalog, so if you need something out of the ordinary, call.


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this is one good thread actually....I had a tach jumping problem, and starting/tuning problem. it would come and go. finally after many months, the battery died. I had been checking the charge rate and it was always over 12.9 volts. then finally after battery quit, it was not. I changed the alternator to a chrome one on Ebay on the cheap new.
presto. Tach does not jump, hotter spark, starts like a teenage girl from my childhood lol
and when I change the tune now, it stays there. this was driving me nuts.
the alternator had some sort of half aszed short in it.
whenever you have a problem you just can't track down, check the battery, alternator.

Call ALS auto electric in collinsville CT never had an issue w one of his alternators and pricing is good. You’ll be happy w his stuff.
18606934394

Really nice guy and quality parts