They are a bit of a pain to get all dialed in. With different pulley ratios, adjusting the valve for just the right amount of vacuum at WOT peak rpm, and then finding a place on the valve cover that works for the suction line. Baffle it or no baffle. Lots of fiddling in all these areas.

We tried all kinds of stuff. Front of the valve cover was horrible. Works okay in some race applications but on the street it sucks way too much oil, even at low vacuum levels. I believe it's because you're turning and braking in a street car all the time and sloshing oil to the front. Baffling that didn't help much at all.
Ended up moving the connection to the middle of the cover, at the very top. Even with no baffle there it has shown to be the perfect spot for his application and pulls in a minimum amount of oil, but just enough to lubricate the pump.

They have some benefits. Any potential oil leaks that may occur are virtually a thing of the past. It promotes good ring seal, especially if you're using a small light tension ring package. It's a great way to evacuate the crank case without pumping oil fumes back into the combustion process (like a PCV). They are generally worth a few HP, and this reason alone is why dad wanted to use one. He's turned into a HP junkie and is looking for every last drop, lol.

He bought it second hand from a forum member here too, so didn't pay as much as you would a brandy new one. No telling how much it was used previously but it was all in good working order.

I've got the new toy home. The motor was wrapped in plastic before loading it onto my truck. The plug wires were disconnected from the plugs and laying on top of the engine. They were labeled so when I unwrapped the motor I plugged them into their respective marked plugs. Then after a long look...the firing order looks a little different from what I thought they should be. Here is how they are marked. I also noted a witness mark on the distributor which I presume is meant to be #1. Keep in mind, the plug wires were still plugged in to the distributor, only disconnected at the plugs. I've heard of alternate firing order stuff. I'm also open to the possibility that the labels on the plugs are incorrect but they were dressed out with wire ties and grouped..it would be really hard for me to plug them into the plugs incorrectly. What do you guys think? Is it possible that the distributor has the terminals realigned internally to make wire management a little easier?

Try start #1 where #7 is in your pic?
(normal firing order)


:confused:

The stock firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 and it runs counter clockwise.

Sometimes a 4-7 swap cam is done, and sometimes they are done with an LS firing order too, but what you have in your picture is neither of those.

Try this:


http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1606524168


:)

It seems the labels may be goofed up. I'll keep the photo for reference later. Thanks!

BTW, if the distributor was already installed when you got it, rotate engine to TDC and the rotor should be pointing at either #1 or #6 which should tell you where the #1 wire will go. (if the wires were correct for what side they went to)


:)

Thanks...I'll have a closer look at it this afternoon.

What John said to find no1; then you could keep going for the rest of the seven cylinders to determine the firing order. Or, you could just do the first four cylinders and determine which of the three popular firing orders you have. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...25bd87c8cb.jpg

Great! Thanks very much for that. Mystery solved...It's wired up for the 1,8,7,3,6,5,4,2 pattern. Super helpful all. Thank you!

So your cam is the 4-7 swap. Usually it will tell you that on the cam card.

The other firing order listed with the 4-7 and 2-3 swap is just the Chevy LS firing order that has been pretty commonly used in SBC and BBC applications. Last I checked that cam core was $1000 from Comp and hit or miss on availability. Haven't seen it used on a Pontiac.......yet.

AllPontiac recommends the LS firing order with their Tiger heads/intake.