455 carnage
 

One of rod bolts broke and pretty much lost everything in the block. I was using 8740 bolts, eagle h beams . I know now i should have had 2000 bolts

Mostly due to flying debris the engine is toast, broke the main cap and bent the arp stud. 455 2 bolt caps. I had good oil pressure before this happened but the journal on the crank was almost black so figured it got hot. I was shifting at 6700 but on occasion got to 7k.

There were no bearings to look at from that rod and havnt pulled it apart any furthur. I was running 20w50 vr1

I may use my 67 400 2 bolt block and do splayed caps and go from there.

Sorry to hear and see this Bill, but to me pushing the factory 455 2 bolt main caps which are just plain gray iron up 7000 rpm is going to get you sooner or later, and with the Rod bolts if you do not change them out by every 4th torque up session then that's another potential red flag point also.

Which cylinder had the issue ?
If the motor was detonating in the cylinder and pounded out that Rod Bearing which started the mayhem then you really can't blame the Rod for going south!

Do any of the other rod Bearings show signs of excess load or movement?

those 6.625 rods? if you have any ''good ones'' left PM me, i have a buddy trying to piece a budget build together.
Checn the block up thru the #2 main to the cam journal for a crack. Is that 3/4 rod that came apart first?

Cyl 4 is what came apart. After seeing the other thread had we wondering because the the blackened crank.

Ouch 7000 rpm. Curious if it was even making power to 7000 rpm? Time for after market block. Sorry to see this happen.

Nice times by the way. 10.48.. wow

Yea, it got away from me here and there on the burnouts, I had my rev limiter turned up and was trying different shift points also. I belong to an exhibition Gasser group that races heads up for fun so sometimes like to put out some big burnouts.

I went to a 2-step rev limiter just for the burnout issue.
Set it at a reasonable limit then can go full throttle if wanted on burnout.
A 4500/5000 RPM burnout should still be smoky.
(and no watching or worrying about the tach reading)


:)


Sorry to see the carnage on your 455.
I have seen a few of those unfortunately.
Although most didn't destroy the block, but some did.
Using the 400 block (smaller mains) seemed to help a lot.
May have only had a couple with them.
(and those may not have had good rods)


:confused:

Im not too familiar with a 2 step but that would probably help with the burnout and also using the transbrake. But my stall is 5200 so would need to set it higher than that ?

For the Burnout?
It will hold at the RPM set on the 2-Step. (it just cuts the ignition, no brake)

If the converter was around 3500 and you are on the tranny brake, that 5500 RPM may not work?

:confused:

Rod 4 and rod 1 get there oil from the number 2 main, so how does number 1 rod Bearing look?

I haven't had the time to get it apart . Iv'e been putting a lot of other things off so I need to get caught up on that first. At this point it wont be quick to tear it apart because of the damage and be looking forward to a replacement.

Im pretty sure I got the rod and journal too hot from oil starvation and rpm, and than it locked up and broke the bolts and rod. Judging by the looks of the crank journal.

Just curious. Do you know what your water temp and/or oil temp were when you hit the water box at 6500 RPM? Interested in what the #2 main bearing looks like as well.

Sorry to see and read that!

I dont know the specific water temps, im still using the sender from 1955 lol. But it was warmed up i thought good enough and oil pressure is good.

Thanks for the info. Was concerned it may not have been warm enough when you ripped it up to high RPM's in the water box. We had issues with thick oil and not enough heat killing bearings early on. If the #2 and #3 main bearings look oil starved, that may still be a minor concern.

Im wondering if #2 main cracked and cap broke first than lost oil pressure to rod? Ill have to wait and see

That would be my guess?

If you feel that it's oil starvation (which creates intense heat, lots of friction and rips the rod apart), then I'd seriously consider going away from the 20w-50 oil. A thinner oil will get more flow to the bearings (less dumped over the pump relief valve) and the bearings will run cooler. We ran 10w-30 in the Grocery Getter and never had a bearing failure.

FWIW:
Eric

Ouch! Sorry to hear and see this