Fixing driver's side door sag?
 

'67 LeMans. Driver's door sags about 1/4" when opened. How do I replace the hinge pins, and where do I source the parts?

Any good parts house should have the rebuild kits for your car. Some times you can get them on the help wall. I don't think the 67 is that bad to do, since the hinge comes off the body. Some cars can be a challenge to do. You will need to get a spring tool to remove and replace the heavy sping inside of the hinge. The tool doesn't cost much. You can do it without the tool but its a lot more easy with it.

I got mine at the local Advance in the red 'Help!' section. Tell them what kind of car because all the hinge kits are not the same.

Its pretty easy to fix a hinge. I would def. recommend the $15 spring compressor though. I tried to do mine without one, then I tried to make one, finally went to AZ and bought one. Did the job in a matter of minutes. I got the rebuild kit off of ebay for about $10 to do both doors. You can find the kits at the Auto Zone type stores, just need to know what the pin size is.

Hey Chiphead, here's a couple vids from MY Friend Pete.

They cover everything you ask about, and come with my usual potty mouth warning.

Hinge Spring - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hIWcDxOpmdA

Hinge Pin - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-2OhryITsQ

Edit: I suggest not removing the hinges if you don't need to.

I noticed the fender with the patch panel in your other thread will be lining up to that door, (same side) drivers side.

Assuming the door hasn't been removed or replaced, just replacing the pin should keep the door at the factory setting.

This would make much better assurance for proper and easier alignment.


Frank

I watched those videos. Yarf. So the only way to change the pins without removing the hinges is to cut the old hinge pins and drive them out?

Its easier to remove the hinge and do the job on a bench. Just use a grease pencil and outline the hinge on the door and hinge pillar prior to removal. Also, do one hinge at a time. 99% of the time you are going to have to re-align the door anyway whether you do the job on the car or on the bench.

I like to use masking tape around the outline of hinge. Gets you exactly where you took it off.

And can remove paint

X2. But if your paint prep was done half-assed, you might experience some paint peeling. If that's a concern, use blue painter's tape. It has a low tack adhesive.

If you have still have the fender off you can just remove the door from the hinge to access it, but no you do not need to remove the hinge.

Also chances are the new hinge will re-align the door to the factory settings and often does if it has never been removed from the car.

Again, I find it much better to leave the hinge (on the body), install the new pins and then adjust the hinge (in place) if needed.

Even if you are going to remove it anyway it's much easier to mock-up, and as mentioned may possibly be in the correct location.


Frank

Did you open the door....grab the lower corner and pick the door up and down ....to see if there is any play in the hinge pins....or does everything seem tight ?

Basically yes. When I open the door, I feel it drop down a bit. So I grabbed the door near the handle and picked upward. I can feel some up and down slack, which I assume is the pins. It's about 1/8" of sag at the bottom leading edge of the door, where it hits the bottom edge of the fender during test fitting.

I studied the hinges a bit the other day. Bottom hinge is a solid cast piece, I can only get to top and bottom of hinge pin. Do I grind the top off and drive it out?

The door detent spring and roller mechanism is missing. Anybody got a pic of what that should look like?

I apologize, I didn't realize the 67 bottom hinge pin was enclosed when I posted that video, regardless I would not remove it from the cowl if not need be.

Grinding the top of the pin off will not help, looking at it the knurled part of the pin is at the top so you would still have to drive it out from the bottom.

If absolutely necessary removing one hinge at a time would be best, this would make it much easier to keep the door aligned, especially if was good to start with.

Since you need the spring, detent, roller, pins and bushings it will probably be more cost effective to just purchase the entire hinge assembly looking at prices.

Both hinges have to be worn for the door to sag, I recommend replacing the pins and bushings in the top hinge first, you can use the video in my prior post.

If you choose to replace the pins and bushings without removing the hinge there are no alignment issues to concern yourself with, simple as that.

Before starting on the bottom take note of the rocker gap, you can make two wooden wedges, insert and mark them, this will help keep the door line uniform.

Assuming you're going to take the bottom hinge off mark the door and cowl before removal, leave the door shut and top hinge in place, this makes for a simple install.

At this point pay particular attention to the door to ensure it's in proper alignment with the rocker panel and quarter panel, this is your primary goal.

Keep in mind the hinge you put on may not be exactly like the one you took off, so long as the door is properly aligned, you can disregard the reference lines.

Everyone has their own way of doing things, it's not a sin to remove the hinges from the cowl, but it does take much more time and work to re-align the door.

Front end sheet metal alignment starts at the doors, with the door properly aligned you can move forward with that fender your working on. :)

Here are a few pics of the hinge assembly, they are available from several vendors, hope this helps, good luck.

https://www.opgi.com/common/CHVC113LH-lrg.jpg
http://www.autometaldirect.com/images/4/W-346_800.jpg


Frank

Like I mentioned.....

You will be chasing your tail and grinding everything in sight and end up doing it this way after days of jerking around, boogering up the paint and getting metal grindings as well as sparks all over your paint and interior.

As mentioned, if there are no alignment issues with the door, after replacing the pin on top, and bottom hinge, no further adjustment will be necessary.

Like I said, everyone has their opinion, choose the best and easiest method for yourself.


Frank

Attachment 515670

Chief.....you can always skip the pins and bushings.....and just give the door a couple good pulls up ...and she will shut just fine........

Appears as if it could be Chiefs technique... :pound:


Frank

LOL! C'mon... You never used a 2x4? ;)

You can always tell on these forums who came from a shop enviroment and who had a pocket protector. :pound: