1970 GTO Automatic Console Question
 

So...the previous owner decided to mount gauges on the woodgrain section of the console and subsequently drilled holes through. Was just goin to JB Weld the holes, but it appears that it is not just a woodgrain decal (already ordered/have that) but a metal plate/laminate insert that is glued in place. The shifter woodgrain insert appears to only be a decal.

So...although I can sand/dremel down the rough edges of the holes, not sure how to eliminate the holes in the insert plate without somehow removing it altogether and just using a decal. Any ideas?

Hope this makes sense.

https://i.imgur.com/O6HtKqQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6VSDSN1.jpg

The vinyl decal is adhered to a thin sheet metal backer. I don't remember if I was able to buy the sheet metal or just the decal.. someone with more experience can chime in on that.

Here are the two pieces separated, in this case showing a bad glue job:

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1594062384

I think your best answer is to replace the sheet metal backer. If it isn't available as a part, there is no magic to it except cutting to shape without bending.. get some strong (cold-rolled) aluminum or steel sheet and cut it with a dremel or similar method that won't bend it.

I do know the metal sheet came off my bezel with some prying, as it was glued on.

I used a strong contact cement to bond the new sheet metal in place:

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1594062384

Your bezel plating looks to be in good shape!

Yeah...mine ain't budging so far...glued down well. I've not found anyone reproducing or selling one, except for OPGI's machine-turned aluminum insert for $75. Yeah...right.

https://www.opgi.com/product/image/O...to-g240176.jpg

I guess I can try to locate a 1/16" - 3 /32" piece of aluminum somewhere and try my dremel skills. Not sure I can make it as perfect as stock, but can trace and go slowly. Where did you find your piece of aluminum?

Shame they had to drill through mine.

Darn... sorry yours didn't come off easy.

Also frustrating when a common part like the backer isn't readily available. Yours isn't the only one that had holes drilled in it!

Also agree $75 is a motivator to find a different solution.

Unfortunately, I don't know how the original backer was glued down but might be worth soaking the bezel overnight in a solvent to see if it will soften. My guess it they didn't use anything high tech and you might get lucky.

As to dremel skills... another opportunity to find a better answer if you have to fabricate. Maybe a nibbler or even sandwich it between other metal or wood and sand it to shape?

Not exactly factory look but very nice wood grain option. I used Hydro Dip and did the dash steering wheel and console. Worked pretty good and all match well. Fill the holes, paint and hydro dip and clear. Just another option. I also had the console wrapped with new vinyl.

I was considering just using the decal I have without the backer plate (after filling the base holes with JB Weld), but wanted to keep it as original as possible. Found some aluminum sheet suppliers, but unless going with the lowest grade @ .063" (@ $10), it doubles+ in price.

I was even thinking about applying the decal on the existing backer plate, but I'm sure the impression of the holes would show through. Don't think solder would work on the holes in the insert plate, even if I dremel/sanded off the existing decal and smoothed out. Might be worth a try though...hate to pry off the insert plate unless I have to...right now it is not bent and decent if there were no holes.

Just my opinion but I'd try filling with a strong slow-curing epoxy (not the 5-minute stuff) then sanding flush. I think it would hold if you solvent-cleaned the drilled holes and maybe scraped them a little.

Solder might work if the plate is steel but sounds risky while still bonded to the bezel. The heat could easily warp the backer sheet or delam the underlying adhesive.

Good luck!

I had holes in mine so I filled them with JB Weld, sanded the wood grain area smooth and then applied the decal. Came out great, the decal was cut spot on so you cant tell there was a repair.

I took the plate off by using nail polish remover dribbled into the edges and allowing to run under plate/ housing( plate edges were already lifting slightly). Then a thin/ flexible putty knife worked under plate to cut/ release the glue. After plate removal, I made sure the contour of the plate( bows slightly in center) lays in housing properly, then installed decal onto plate and plate onto housing.

So...did you JB Weld the insert plate, or the base (or both together)?

The holes on mine are on the edges where there is a slight gap between, where no glue/adhesive is.. I don't think I can use the JB Weld effectively without separating completely and not sure if would adhere. Maybe an epoxy, as suggested on the plate after sanding the old decal off..

Would have to be perfectly flat sanded afterwards for the holes not to show through the decal. It's pretty thin.

Wow, that looks great! Did you do the hydro dip yourself or had someone else do it?

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Anyway, yes, I just recently went through this, use nail polish remover, but that was taking too long. So I put it in an industrial type zip lock bag and let it soak for 2 weeks in WD_40. The steel insert plate lifted right off after that. Pretty sure that's how I did it, seems like ages ago! Heheh! But pretty sure I posted info on this, with pics.

I was going to reuse the backing plates, but decided not to. I just cleaned up the base real good and stuck the sticker right on. It's pretty much a 1 shot deal, and it's a fairly close fit.

I looked at those turned ones that come with the backing plate but didn't want the turned stuff. (I did the carbon fiber inserts). Turned out well.

EDIT: If you go without the plate, you should fill the holes, it could show through. I think JB Weld would work fine.


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Here's my thread on this topic:

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...hlight=console

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I still have the plates, they are in great condition....

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Thanks for the info.

Just realized that my shifter bezel doesn't have the insert plate and the decal is adhered directly to the bezel <tap> <tap> <tap>....that may complicate things a little. Wondering if I should get the turned inserts for both and whether or not to put a decal on them. Or rip the console insert plate off and apply the decal to the bezel, like the shifter.

Hate to half-ass things, but $138 for both turned plates is ridiculous. I could use the $$ to put toward other things. Not sure I can fab both pieces from scratch and make them look professional...argh!

Same way I was thinking at the time, getting a plate to lay flat, especially since it has a slight curve to it.

It won't hurt to try putting the wood grain stickers directly on the plates without the insert plate, the regular decals are not that expensive.

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