Rust Deadener - Inside Trunk
 

When I had my 69 Charger restored, the shop doused these areas with rust deadener. I don't remember what they used.

inside of Trunk Floor to Quarter Panel Extension
Inner Wheel Well to Inner Quarter Panel seam
Inner quarter panel to rocker panel.

Any of you guys do this to your cars?

Thinking of letting POR 15 run down the inner body seams.

A

I used Rust Bullet before with good results. I have heard people mention Por 15 can peel off and do no good. Others have had good luck with it. I have also used Rustoleum rust inhibitor with good results.

Thanks. Did you pour it into the seams and let it ooze in all the crevices after your body work was done?

I used a brush and let it run into cracks and crevices. Most of the time this stuff works best when it's worked into the affected area or area you want treat.

I use 3M cavity wax

The 3M stuff looks great for new metal. I am trying to attack rust I can't see on 40 year old metal seams. I think I would need some kind of rust converter...

What you need is a rust converter you can leave on and then top coat. A mild phosphoric acid like Picklex-20 or similar would work. It converts iron oxide to iron phosphate. Other converters like Naval Jelly contain phosphoric acid, but include other paint stripping chemicals like sulfuric acid that you do NOT want to leave in place.

I would remove loose rust and scale then treat with phosphoric acid. Sop up the excess and let dry. Then top coat with a primer product that is compatible with acid etch adhesion promoters. That usually means its compatible with phosphoric acid.

For what areas i could not access (inside rockers and frame rails) I used eastwood rust converter. They have one product with a long hose and a multi directional spray nozzle. Honestly dont know if it works or not, but several years along I dont have rust. Figured something was better than nothing. I have not used por products ( i have used chassis savor, which I believe is a similar product) but my impression is that it should be applied directly to the rust itself for it to work the way its supposed to. I have heard if the surface is somewhat clean it will peel off.

I have had good luck with Rust Seal...by SEM .....just bang off all loose rust and shale with a pic hammer....apply 2 coats ..15 minutes apart....let dry for 24 hours....apply body filler or epoxy primer over it....or leave it as is.

Agree with the phosphoric acid...
Had an S10 and entire roof was heavily pitted with rust. Hit it with a grinder, soaked it down with phosphoric acid, after it dried, wiped it with a damp rag, let it dry and applied 2 coats of 2K primer. Drove it for 3 yrs in that state and it never popped.

I’ve had luck with Eastwood’s ‘rust encapsulator’. They have a new version that supposed to be even better.