Another 'chrome' spray for instrument panel thread
 

A while back, there was a thread in one of the other forums on the various results many of us have gotten from using one of the spray-on 'chrome' products. The most common in the automotive restoration hobby is from Alsa Corporation. It's rather expensive at $50 a can (Over $100 for the "kit") and many have gotten questionable results. I personally was satisfied with my results using it but think it's pretty expensive...especially when you see that others have been dissatisfied with the results.

However, in the midst of that thread, a couple of other products, aimed mainly at the plastic modeling and R/C car modeling crowd, came to my attention. A product called Alclad was one and the other was a product called 'Spaz Stix'.
They are much cheaper and appeared to be practically the same product as the Alsa Corporation product.
Since that thread, I had an issue with the Woodgrain applique that I used in the restoration of my '68 GTO instrument panel. PY replaced the product and I thought that this would be the perfect time to use a better core that I had in my parts stash.
Also, it would be the perfect time to try one of these cheaper products. I chose to use Spaz Stix in the 2 ounce bottle. I also used a Paasch compressor and airbrush that I had from my old R/C aircraft modeling days. The product is available in a aerosol can for about $1 more but I liked the idea of having it a bottle and spraying it myself.
I am pleased with the outcome and am posting some pics that I took during the process.
The Spaz Stix is available for about $8 a bottle or $9 for an aerosol can. I bought two 2oz bottles and barely used a quarter of one of the bottles.

Here is a photo of the core. It is in pretty good shape and almost usable as is but the chrome was badly thinned out with the black underneath showing in several areas.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...t/IMG_0055.jpg

Here is a photo after masking with Fine Line tape around the edges of the proposed 're-chroming' area. I only did that because I wanted to preserve the '68 panel's unique 'dark aqua' like color where it will peek through the edges of the woodgrain. I know from experience that it won't look right 'chrome' there and black isn't right for this particular year. Even if I had not done that, I would still have to do at least black at those edges. The inside of the instrument openings is completely masked. Again, I did not want that black. '68 is the only year that used that weird blue-aqua-grey like color.
Also, notice the paint is Krylon 'Rust Tough'. I like the fan spray nozzle it has and it has, in my opinion, a superior gloss compared to most brands. GLOSSY black is critical to getting the chrome effect.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...t/IMG_0056.jpg

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...t/IMG_0058.jpg

Next, the Spaz Stix has been applied. You are not going to get this kind of 'chrome like' finish with any rattle can paint you get at the hardware store. None of them!

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...t/IMG_0075.jpg



http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...t/IMG_0076.jpg

In my opinion, this is absolutely worth doing for less than 20 bucks, including the black paint. Is it exactly like chrome plating in appearance?...NO...but for a driver, I think it looks fantastic compared to what I've seen guys do with Testor's modeling paint and other similar budget attempts at duplicating the original finish.


http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...t/IMG_0086.jpg

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...t/IMG_0084.jpg

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...t/IMG_0082.jpg

Looks pretty good Greg!

Looks good Greg!! Thanks for the pics. Now for questions:confused:

>You stated light coats in this or the other thread....BUT....are you completely hiding the black undercoat with the chrome paint?? (ie spraying enough coats until the black is completely hidden...ie not slightly "transparent", etc).

>Does this product use a clear coat?

>How many coats...in your estimation?? I know there's probably not an exact answer but I'll ask it anyway.

>Are you just "dusting" on each coat or moving the airbrush slower so that the coverage is obvious wherever you are pointing the gun?



Thanks again.

Patton, I'd say the way it lays is very thin and almost transparent, watery, so you don't really have to try to lay down light coats. It just sprays nearly transparent with a little silver 'flake' in it and the black undercoat showing through...
I'll put it this way...When I sprayed it, since I could easily see the black "through" it, that makes you instinctively want to lay more on and I did. At that moment, it almost turns to chrome before your eyes as the second coat lays down. That''s when you stop.
You just keep it moving and you don't necessarily have to treat it like paint, that is, not a 'full coat' like you would with the black paint. You look at it as you spray it, you'll see where it needs more and where it doesn't. I'd say it took no more than 30-40 seconds to lay the chrome down whereas the black paint takes a minute or two.
Also, the black paint finish is much more critical in application. Smooth and glossy is key.
The great thing about this stuff Patton is that at the price and the tiny bit it takes to do the job, you can play on some scrap plastic with it until you feel comfortable.

Thanks Greg....I'm going to get some and give it a try (have an airbrush as well and time to put it to use again).

How long did you wait after applying the Krylon gloss black??

No clearcoat used??

EDIT: Greg - I checked out Spaz Stix's site and see they also sell a clear, etc....thanks

Just a quick note, their products are sold on Amazon. Wish i had known of this before sending my bezels off to be chromed. I would have liked to have given this a try first.

Greg- thanks for posting this.

You are very good at this.

Thanks for sharing.

What is this "Fine Line" tape you used to mask? The edges of the instrument openings look very uniform.

Did you strip the original metal off?

How did you prep before spraying black?

And finally, any idea how durable this might be to both touch and Windex?

Ok, I'll try to cover your questions in a single response...I let the Kryon dry for several days but that's just because I know that it tends to be slow curing. Not sure if it would make any difference to the Spaz Stix. Also, any gloss black that you like will probably work ok. I just like the Krylon. It's durable, very shiny and like I said, I really like the fan spray nozzle. Testor's would probably be fine.
I do not recommend using clear over the Spaz Stix. In my experience, it makes it look a little less shiny and more like silver paint.

The Fine Line tape I used is a 3m product that I've had for years. I got it from a body supply shop. It comes on a single roll that has been cut at the factory to several different widths from probably one half inch down to a sixteenth of so.
Another option is to just spray your panel with the chrome and use a small brush to paint black around the instruments afterwards. You really just don't want the chrome peeking through the little gap between the veneer and the bezel.
I did not strip anything from the original except the glue. I cleaned it with a degreaser/wax remover, like anything I paint, because I don't want fisheyes staring at me. After allowing the black to dry, I degreased again before the chrome spray.

As for durability, the Alsa Corp stuff I sprayed on my first panel is still holding up quite well without a clear coat and this Spaz Stix seems to be pretty much the same stuff I think it's been at least a couple of years..probably three.
I will say though that I haven't cleaned it with Windex or anything. It may hold up fine to that, I just haven't done it. You (or I) might test it on an inconspicous spot or a test panel.
A soft microfibre cloth seems to work fine so far and let's face it, you're not going to get a ton of dirt and grime on your dash most likely.
As far as touch, it seems pretty good to me but time will tell.

Charles and Shiny, thanks...Jack, I hope it helps someone that's interested in trying it.

Bottom line, it's not a direct replacement for a true chrome plating job but I like the look and I love the price.

Shiny, I just realized what you were referring to here...The inside surface of the bezel just required a combination of regular blue, hardware store variety low tack masking tape and some printer paper to mask. If you look at the above pics of the chromed bezel, before the veneer was placed on, you can see it still in place.
I got the clean edge by going around the inner top edge with a razor after taping it all in place.

Nice job. i will do that to my cluster bezel and a/c vents one day. :)

I started taking the dash out for the fourth(!) time today. I may do the vents as well.

Thanks for answering all my questions.

I understand what you've done now, but I suspect your skill is a big part of it.

Very nice job and your taking the time to post all this is appreciated.

My pleasure.

great post! this is just the info i needed for for my resto.thanks greg!

This may be the resolution for some of the bezels I have that are original woodgrain, and cant be plated without destroying the woodgrain.