Carter booster fuel pump location
 

Initial look at a location near the fuel line outlet doesn’t look like a promising placement with dual exhaust tail pipes, axle housing etc. Is it an acceptable practice to put pump inside trunk mounted vertically near spare tire? I’d drill holes through front of pan and run fuel lines out through grommets.. Using this pump really as just a way to fill carb faster as it always takes a lot of cranking to fill the bowl after sitting for a couple of days. Thanks

Lower than the tank is the best place.

Some of the Bosch electric fuel pumps were frame rail mounted.

Some have made a bracket system that uses the forward tank straps but locates the fuel pump right in front of the fuel tank outlet. I made a set-up like that one time.

I did the drilled fuel line holes in the trunk kick-up using a Holley Blue Pump many years ago and it worked barely. Bad Idea in my mind. Will not do it again. Tanks,inc is the best way.

Tom V.

seems like lots of carbs (q-jets) have this problem after sitting for a few days, & mine is no exception... but instead of spending ~$100 & dealing with mounting & plumbing in a pump just to fill the bowls, i took the easy & cheap way out & simply keep a small bottle with a few ounces of fuel in it. when the car sits for a week or more, i just fill the bowl through the vent tube with about 1/2 oz of fuel... car fires right up on first crank, does the same thing an aux pump does for free.

just a suggestion for an easy way to deal with that issue vs adding a separate pump.

but mounting to the tank strap bolt(s) with a bracket as suggested is probably the easiest way if you do it.

Like 78w72, I also use a bottle that I got from Summit.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...0090/overview/

yeah those work too, i had something like that for my nitro RC cars i used to run, little bigger than needed for this purpose tho.

now i just use an empty 8 oz contact lens cleaner bottle that has a small pointed tip on it. been using that for years to measure ounces for things like fuel stabilizer & 2 stroke oil mixing.

Or you could fix the carb. Cliff may Have a DIY kit to fix it

dont think the carb needs to be fixed, its a recent full rebuild from cliff.

lots of people seem have this issue with carbs that dont like to restart after sitting for a week or more. takes some cranking or other means to refill the bowl. most blame the fuel. i have confirmed mine has little to no pump shot after sitting a week or more, anytime before that it starts right up. i have a couple other cars with qjets that do that as well to some degree.

Thanks all. This original carb was rebuilt by Cliff and it works great but just as 78w72 describes there is no pump shot. Worse in the summer heat after just a few days (evaporation?). I’m trying to maintain originality of this particular car. I would like to add the pump if I didn’t need to permanently alter car to install so I guess it’s best if I just prime the carb manually.

Adding a second fuel pump as a pusher pump, works fine on increased performance applications. It is just a convenience on a driver vs taking the air cleaner off and squirting some fuel into the fuel bowl(s) of a carb.

A Trans Am, if I remember correctly being the biggest effort, as far as getting to the carb.

I, typically on my GTO, used to check the tire pressure, the oil level, the coolant level in the radiator, turn signals, mirrors, and brake lights (easy to do if in a garage that is dark) BEFORE I drove the car. This was after it became a cruiser vs a daily driver.

Fuel Squirt Bottle works fine.

Tom V.

I use the straw on a spray can of B-12 to prime carburetors when they've sat long enough to dry out.

Gas here leaves a thin crusty film on everything inside the carburetor when the fuel evaporates gone. Fresh gas doesn't dissolve the film...Just adds another layer when the carb dries out again.

The B-12 prime melts the cruds away and keeps the carb working like it should. Besides ease and convenience, it's worth the extra $$ to me just to keep the carb in tip top shape.

Clay

When my q-jet cars sit for a couple weeks or more, it just takes a few revolutions and the pump fills the carb right back up. Engine hits after maybe 5-6 revolutions vs just bunting the key when the carb has gas in it. It's not really that bad at all.

Are you guys experiencing much longer crank times to fill the carb?

mine doesnt start in just 5-6 revs, that would not be an issue & not what others are experiencing. before i started squirting in a little fuel, i would crank it for 2, 3-5 second cycles before flooring it to set the choke, then it fires right up, maybe it would fire sooner but ive gotten used to that process. a squirter bottle is much easier on the starter & battery now... a t/a with a shaker would be a little more involved removing the shaker, but still not that bad once you get used to it.

i have an aftermarket robbmc pump, so maybe that is different than a stock type pump, & possibly allows fuel to drain back easier? but this happens on my other cars with stock type pumps as well, just not quite as bad as the 500+hp stroker car.

Carb leakage use to be such a common problem that H-O developed a secondary well seal + primary lead plug seal kit for that purpose. Symptoms were exactly as you describe. after 3-4 days the car would need to be cranked a lot or manually primed to get running. Did Cliff seal up the secondary and primary plugs? Later Q-jets are better from a leakage standpoint, but not perfect.

My Carter Pusher Pump has been a key modification on my PMD cars since the late 80s.

Been brazen enough to block the return line in th GM Mech Pump too. No ills, just works well when left off, and works better when turned on.

yes i have read about that issue & the plug kits & other ways to try & seal them.

both of my cliff built q-jets are from 1978 t/a's, & both have done this from day one & not gotten any worse. so i would have to trust that cliff checks them &/or does his sealing procedure if needed.

i dont doubt leaking well plugs can be an issue, but with as many q-jets out there that do this type of thing it could be fuel related or pump diaphrams letting fuel past or who knows.

seems to be worse for some people than others, i can get by for about 5-7 days with just just a short crank of about 3-5 seconds, after that it would need 2 or 3 cranks depending on how long it sat. after a week or more i dont even touch the pedal, i do 2 cranks for about 3-5 second each, then floor it 1 or 2 times to set the choke & get a squirt of fuel, next crank it fires right up. no real strain on the starter or battery, but lately i manually prime it when its been longer than a week.

The Robbmc Power Surge solves many problems associated with high powered Qjets and good traction.

Getting back to NYtrainer's original question. It was fairly common in the 60's and early 70's to see trunk mounted electric pumps on some of the hot cars. My buddies 69 COPO Camaro he bought in 72 already had an electric pump mounted in the trunk when he bought it, along with running the stock mechanical. Cars like these F-bodies don't have a bunch of room under the car back there to mount much of anything and in those days that was the solution when you didn't have many other choices on a street/strip car.

These days you just don't see much of that anymore now that we have several options with FI tanks and in tank pumps that solve all these problems.

Plus I believe NHRA cracked down on it. It would also be cause for tech inspectors at the track to scrutinize the car a bit more when you have anything fuel related in the trunk. Usually requires some sort of firewall protection from the passenger compartment and I don't remember if a trunk with a back seat separating passengers is enough or not, but I do know they get really funny about hatchback cars and station wagons because I've been through that before. It's in the rule book if one cares to look. I do know they don't like any fuel at all in the passenger compartment, not even a mechanical fuel pressure gauge, for obvious reasons.