That sounds like the last month for me. Engine is running ok, but my brakes were weak, so I started with the master cylinder, then found no good pressure at the cylinders, so full brake job time. In doing so, I saw that one of my front tires needed replacing and that a rear axle was extremely off center and needed replacement. Ordered a new set of "this fits your vehicle" axles, bearings, spacers, seals, studs, and nuts, along with two new tires.
When I got the new axles, they were 2.5" short of what actually fits my vehicle.

Ended up having to return everything, get custom axles made and shipped. Finally got them, installed everything, and found that the new master cylinder was bad. $1,200 and a month later(rather than a quick MC change,) she is back on the road and happy other than her advance curve.

Like I said earlier, I've set up a few profiles and really look forward to trying them out. Some are based on the generic "Pontiacs like 30-36 total" and some are based on stock mechanical and vacuum points.

Along the lines of what David said, it would be nice if you could get it to learn, but that would take a lot more than one wire (I have the HEI version). One thing they could do and I will definitely recommend is that they should let you record the run session. That way, you can at least see exactly where the vacuum, RPM, and timing was when you felt something you want to change if you can time sync it. Or better yet, give it an option to record audio as it records your stats.

Then again, when my 400 is roaring, my wireless headset can't hear me yell.

To do this with MSD parts will cost over $800 won’t it?

I just installed one on a buddy's car. The HEI version. The only snag was the power supply must be clean power. We had one supply hooked to it that i think was also running a fuel pump and it did not like it a bit. Bluetooth connections drop out and it missed. Once we ran a clean separate power line direct from the fuse panel it worked like a charm. You can tune it on the fly.

So does the distributor look to be well made...like a lock out MSD type? If we think MSDs are well made. LOL

My opinion is that it is well made. Very simple mechanically since there are no advance mechanisms at all.

It's been four months since the last post. Any updates for those that have taken the plunge?

Hi Folks,

One update coming up. ;-) A big factor in choosing this distributor was the ability to create and store multiple tunes in my phone. My 400 is .030 over and with the pistons the PO used, real world static compression is around 9:1. That said, even with the 068 cam, it was pinging like a bell choir, and I couldn't get the Q'Jet to run right. Believing the preignition mischief was was ignition-based, I pulled the trigger on this unit. It turns our the Q' jet was the culprit. A rebuilt Q'Jet was junk and a waste of money - same issues.

So, I picked up a Holley Sniper Quadrajet EFI. The installation is worthy of a whole separate thread, but now that it's done and with the fueling issues handled, I'm happy to report that tuning the ignition is really waking up my GTO. More importantly, I'm zeroing in on getting the thing to run reliably and ping-free on mid-grade (89 octane around NE Pennsylvania). Doing the tuning from my smartphone is a breeze and the new version of the app has a nice real-time gauge set feature too.

So, after all this time, I think I'm finally getting the results that I was looking for when I bought the distributor and would buy it again again. Oh and yes it really did need full 12v. to run right too. Because of the addition of EFI, a vacuum pump and future considerations, I did install a small aux circuit panel in the engine bay. Activated via a relay, this panel provides 6 additional fused ignition-on 12v battery power circuits for whatever else I need. No trouble so far.

FYI: Here is the link to my installation I posted over in the Street section: https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...36#post6159336

Larry, What heads are you running? The smaller chambered heads (<72) combined with pistons that are below deck at tdc can be prone to dentation. Has to do with the flame spreading out over the piston in a larger area & creating more heat. zero deck bumps compression but keeps the ignition in the chamber. I have the factory 16 heads, 068 cam, Q-jet & a lowly oe point ignition system with no pre-igntion at all.

Man, I really want one of those distributors but I can’t say I NEED it enough to justify the cost. Just given the difficulty finding factory weights and center plates I’ve wondered if I could get any noticeable performance out of my engine by playing with the timing curve but realistically being a street car 99% of the time I dunno that I would really notice a difference. It would certainly be a fun toy to tinker with though.

Also, it concerns me a little that the company doesn’t seem to be very active anymore. I’d hate the spend the money only to find out they closed up shop. Not that it’s heading that way they just don’t seem too well established for me yet.

I have the #13 heads. They allegedly have the 72cc chambers and big valves. The PO added hardened seats in addition to the usual overhaul items.

I have the same curve I had before w/ the carbs and while they pinged like crazy, the efi does not. So, I think it was a jetting/metering/issues. Either way, the efi works really nice.

FYI: The curve I have in the distributor right now is:
14 deg initial
34 total mechanical / all in by 3000
16 vacuum
This gives 34 total and up to 50max cruise
I just came back from another drive and have no pre-ignition whatsoever.

I am expecting mine to arrive tomorrow. I am not an ignition expert. If anyone would share a good timing table with me, that would be appreciated.

My email is: wbnapier@yahoo.com

I have a 91 octane pump gas 455/469, #48 heads, '65 tri-power, with a stump puller cam.

I'm looking forward to trying this.