Sound Deadening Matrerial Installation
 

Now that the car is back home, I was gonna start installing the sound deadening material.


Any suggestions on procedure?


Start at the firewall and work toward the back, start at the rear seat and work forward or start at the trans tunnel and work toward the doors?


Thanks


DM3

When I've done it in the past, I've started at the front and moved rearward.

It kind of doesn't matter, because you're going to have to trim and section pieces no matter where you start.

The last time I did one, I started on the floor pans/tunnel, and laid as many full sheets as possible, then came in after and sectioned in the rest. You will see pretty early on, not too many full sheets can be laid, and you have to slit, cut 'V's, and sections to make it fit flat, which ends up not covering as much as you thought it would.

That's why I kinda say it doesn't matter.

Don't worry about making it look 'pretty', or covering every square inch, or making all the labels face the same way, it's all just pointless.

The objective is to cover as much surface as possible, but the last 30% of coverage starts sloping off on returns of deadening.

Areas that I didn't try too hard on covering is the front kick panel areas, the quarter area, and the firewall. I did pretty good on the firewall, would say I didn't do about 5-10% at most. Some areas you just can't do.

Remember to clean the surface WELL, I used acetone, especially on areas that sheeting would be upside down or vertical. It makes it more important if the opposite side is exposed to heat, like firewall and inside of roof.

I say if you can do the roof, use the lightweight stuff, and not the regular stuff you use on the floors. It would suck if that chit drops after the headliner is in.

I put strips on the inside of my doors on the outer panels, and make sure you try to do as much as possible on the inner wheel wells. The rear deck is good to do too, but remember, it takes up space, and some things won't fit right if too much space is taken up.

I strongly suggest you do heat barrier too. Sound deadener and heat barrier are two different things. Floor pans, areas over the mufflers, and firewall are key areas to focus on. Remember the 'takes space' thing applies there too, especially with the carpet laying right. I chose not to go up the floor pans over onto the flat area/rockers, so the carpet and door sills would fit.

Finding holes that bolts go in are not easy after the deadening install, if you can, trim holes as you go, it helps.

You can do the quarter wheel wells all the way up to the seat divider area, if you go too far back, you will see if from the trunk. Doing the trunk floor helps a lot. If you're not going for a factory look, you can shoot the deadener with truck bed liner, you can find it in aerosol cans now.

Think I posted pics on my tribute build thread, can't remember....

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I bought a gallon of Rustoleum professional flat black and mixed in some micro-spheres. Think super tiny glass bubbles with the consistency of flour. This makes a cheap, DIY version of Lizard Skin.
I painted the roof and floors with it, and after it had cured, I put down FatMat from the firewall to the tail lights and inside of the doors. I don't know how much better it is over not doing it, but with the carpet covering it, I haven't been able to notice any rattles, squeaks, drone, or other noises and I would say that it definitely tones down the inside of the car.
I think it also does a good job of stopping the heat.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Motor-Spo...708_HDR-XL.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/Motor-Spo...711_HDR-XL.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/Motor-Spo...644_HDR-XL.jpg

ETA:
I stuck a piece to the roof about 2 years ago to see if it would stay in the Florida heat. So far it shows no sign of wanting to come off.

Get a fluorescent green or pink utility knife or you'l go nuts trying to find it all the time!!!