Replacing body mount rubber bushings
 

How difficult is this to do? I have a drive on hoist. Are the nuts buried and capitaved? Next question is what to use, rubber or urathane?Or is this something for professionals to do?

This is on a 66 Conv.

Lift makes it easier, sure. The main problem is the bolts tend to rust to the internal, captive cage-nuts in the body. On mine the worst ones were the four in the rear under the trunk. Need to go easy loosening the bolts if rusty. too much force and the nuts break out of the cage and then just spin with the bolt. You then need to cut thru the body sheet metal over the nut to lube/hold it to remove.

Again, that's the worst part.

George

You'll probably have to remove bumpers and steering column.

Pray you don't break a cage nut.

DO NOT USE an impact!
1/2" ratchet with an 18" handle and go slow. Work the bolt back and forth lubricating as best you can.

You might want to use some penetrating oil before trying to loosen the nuts. Maybe soak them for two or three days. And, if they don't move easily try tightening them and then respray with penetrating oil.

wbnapier said, "You'll probably have to remove bumpers and steering column." I plan on doing mine this winter. I don't understand why, please enlighten me.

Because they are attached to the frame, and on my car ('65 GTO), when you lift the body up with a floor jack and 2x4, there is sheet metal that will interfere on front and rear bumper.

Same with steering column. The firewall sheet metal will rise and hit the column.

Walk around your car and look carefully, and imagine that you are going to raise the body up, and take note where it will hit things that are attached to the frame.

In my case, that was bumpers and steering column.

You might get away with undoing the rag joint so the steering column will move with the body. Also, make sure you put the right mount in the right position.If I remember correctly the bushing beneath the doors on a convertible is a different thickness than the rest. I would pull the bumpers to protect the body. I would go with rubber bushings unless you plan on making a race car out of it.

Yes, I wasn't clear early, just disconnect rag joint as fyrffytr1 says.

I have a 66 convertible and will be using a 4 post lift with a rolling jack. I'll have to check that out. Thanks for the heads up.

Pictures and helpful information on body mount replacement:

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=580593

Did my 1967 years ago on the garage floor with a block of wood and a floor jack. I did 1 at a time and didn't have to disconnect anything else. You don't have to raise body very much. No matter what I did I couldn't help spinning several of the nuts. Oil did not help. They were badly rusted.

I hope to never do that again. Every single body bushing bolt was rust welded on our ‘66. Had to cut a hole above, Dremmel out the cage and nut, and just used a bolt and nut after. It was a killer. Hopefully you have an easier time with it.

The ones I had issues with were 1. in the door opening next to the driver's seat. There is a dimple in the floor sheet metal above the bolt. Drill a hole for lube access and it came out ok. 2. The four in the trunk area...two under the trunk floor near the wheel houses and two in the rear area near the taillight bezels. Had to locate them and open the trunk floor sheet metal to gain access for lube and hold the cage nut.

George

I purchased the kit two years ago and haven't built up the courage to tackle the project -- and you guys aren't helping! :eek:

I didn't have a single seized or spun nut. So, not all horror stories.

I replaced all but one bushing as I didn't disconnect my rag joint and couldn't get clearance on one.

Another bushing didn't align correctly, and I needed to modify it from memory.

You can do it.

The bolts from my 68 came out with ease. The bolts for my El Camino came out easy too. Both are California cars from a dry climate.

Your's should be good too Mick.

Go with what b-man says in his link. I haven't done it yet but that is the best way once you get the bolts free.

If anyone does have that job on your long term list ... do yourself a favor now and get it on a lift and get whatever kind of penetrating oil you can on them NOW, might make a big difference a year down the road. Even if you have to drill a small hole above the cage nut and spray some in.