Ames Remote Outside Mirror
 

Does anyone have any experience with this remote mirror for a '67 GTO...my original is pretty badly broken where all the cables converge into the back of the control.
Thanks

I bought one and sent it back. Mirror glass flopped around all the time. Find a factory one and rechrome -restore it, you'll be glad you did.

I don't really need the mirror itself, more so the inside mechanism...just not sure if that could be adapted to the existing mirror.
Thanks

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I have been struggling with this issue this week: our mirrors were from a Chevy (Monte, as I recall) and the end not only pulled off of one of the cables, but the nylon block broke in two; I think it's toast! But, I found two sets on mid-eighties Firebirds in a moribund wrecking yard for $20/pair, and ended up using those. They have a much sturdier-seeming control toggle end (all-metal!) and the escutcheon/socket looks a bit better -- for our application. So, sanding down to the metal, epoxy-priming, and repainting, once again! These are a bit smaller, but very similar - and newer. I'm considering putting the other set on my '61 Tempest V-8 coupe (not quite original anyway), but the mounting is much more horizontal so will have to put them in the band saw and modify. On the other hand, I can still use the Chevy version in this case, if I want to just shine on the adjustment feature; another sand/repaint, etc. If somewhere another driver's side unit turns up, I might be able to repair that one after all. Consider the Firebird/Camaro style? Wick PS; ours is on a restomod '51 Chevy.

Post a pic. Guys are discussing different types.

Parts from various 65-68 remote mirrors

Remote '67 GTO

Mine repop flopped around while driving. Opened it up to tighten, flopped.
Rebuilt a Stock mirror from best looking parts. Much better.

OG68, Could you please confirm that the red yellow blue cables at the control knob are routed to the mirror anchors as shown? I rebuilt & rechromed my remote mirror and misplaced my notes which cable goes where on the control knob. My first try resulted in the mirror going right when I pushed the knob left.

Also, were you able to remove the mirror from the backing without breaking the glass?

The mirror head looks correct. The letters Y, G, and R are stamped on the back to indicate which colors go where.
Photos of the control head below. If you look with a magnifying glass you can almost see the color code letters cast into the cable entrance to the head. Sometimes a small paint remnant can be seen.

I add a dab of identification paint to the cable/control head before disassembly.

I had bought the mirror without the glass just for parts, so I can't help you with the glass removal.

Are these mirrors coming from The Parts Place?
if so whats the part#?

What did you try when you had the repop one apart?
I have some OEMs that were floppy and it was because the aluminum backing the mirror glass is mounted on was stretched where the cables go thru.

I will add to this DO NOT do business with Potmetal Restorations of Fla in Tallahassee .
Ive never experienced a more uncooperative business.
I sent several cores to them,told them to pick the best one(one is the operative word here)
they send 2 back that were filled with so much copper the glass wouldnt fit. I asked for a refund
which they said send mirrors back for examination. I got my refund but they removed all the plating
with a grinder and ruined the 2 cores.I called about this and was fuming. His answer about ruining my cores was
"what do you want me to do,I refunded your money".I tried getting Hemmings involved, as they claim they will help if the company is uncooperative.
They sided with Potmetal Restorations(no big surprise as to who butters the bread here),so I dropped Hemmings after 20 yrs.
DO NOT USE POTMETAL RESTORATIONS of FLA.

A floppy remote mirror can be tightened and made firmer by adding a twist to the toggle end, takes the slack out which is supporting the glass head.

One of my cable end tabs is broken, that's the only thing wrong with mine.
It will not work with only two good cables, you definitely need all three working.

The one that OG68 has posted looks like an updated version, with more robust cable end tabs.