Exhaust manifold install
 

I was missing bolts somehow so I ordered a set of 69 rs/ho bolts with locks.

One bolt I was missing is the passenger side rear of the motor. Ok so this might sound stupid but does the bolt go through the head and into the manifold or is it already supposed to be pushed through the manifold already and threads into the head? I can’t recall if there were threads in the manifold. Also it must take the shortest bolt because it’s a tight angle.

The manifolds are on and I have an exhaust leak there.

Pretty sure the threads are in the head only on my RARE manifolds. I had a leak there also, the bolt actually loosened up and fell out. Retighten a few times/heat cycles after you put the new gasket on.

My problem is the manifold is already on the car but I’m missing that bolt. I was trying to put that bolt in and I can’t seem to angle even the shortest bolt in there. I’m not sure if I even bought the correct bolts or not. The package from Ames read 69 ra/ho. I have a 68 but I figured they were still right.
I’m not sure if I have to try to unbolt the manifold and change it’s direction somehow to get a bolt in the hole or not.

I had to raise the engine off the mounts slightly to get the bolts into the RA manifolds on my car.
They are definitely bolts and not a stud with a nut and there are no threads in the manifolds themselves.

Instead of what Greg did, I installed the manifold with two of the bolts already slid into place in the exhaust manifold. It wasn't pleasant, but with the frame in the way there wasn't enough room to get the bolt\washer combo in after the manifold was in place.

I wonder if I have enough room on the passenger side to just loosen the bolts already in it and maneuver the manifold around to get that bolt in.

That one rear bolt is the main issue. With the exhaust leak.

I have a friend with a lift so I may try taking the manifold out from below.

Are all the exhaust bolts the same diameter for 68/69? My package read 69 on it.

Don't even try to work on the manifolds without jacking the engine up on the side you're working on. Take the motor mount bolt off on the side you're working on, and jack that side of the engine up, you'll be able to put the bolt in and have a helluva lot more room to work. It may, or may not, seal the head to the manifold.

These manifolds warp over time so if it's flat it should seal, if not you're probably going to have to remove it and either replace it, or have it surfaced. Be aware that these bolts have to be the correct length, some will bottom out in the holes (end ones) depending upon which ones you're working on. You should also chase the threads in the head with a bottom tap on the end bolt holes, I would chase any threads as rust will get in the backside of the open holes and screw up the threads.

All Pontiacs since 1955 use 3/8 inch coarse thread bolts to hold the manifolds to the head, but length is critical for them to tighten the manifold to the head, instead of bottoming out before they tighten the two parts together. The end bolts intersect into the head bolt holes so if the bottom out on the head bolts they won't seal the end ports. Many hardware stores only stock bolts in 1/2 inch increments, you need ones in 1/4 inch increments.

On the RA manifolds they only used 4 bolts to hold the casting to the head because of the design, they have to be flat to work well though. The bean counters left out bolts too, and the standard logs went to using only 4 bolts, out of six, from the factory.

Of course the steel shim gasket must be in good shape too to seal, they do tend to rust away as they age.

That sounds like a lot more work than raising the engine a couple of inches. JMO