Harmonic Balancer ?
 

My buddy has a '66 LeMans and found 2 pieces of rubber under the motor yesterday. Does the Harmonic balancer have a rubber ring that has maybe come apart?

Entirely possible as they age.

Yes they do have a bonded rubber cushion between the outer ring and inner hub of the balancer.

Here is a new one for the '59 -'67 engines, it's always a good idea to renew this part on an older engine as well as on a fresh rebuild. I used this one on a recent '64 421 HO build.

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After reading B-Man's recommendation for this balancer in another post, I purchased one for my 66 389 GTO. I could not be more pleased with the fit and finish of this part and would not hesitate to echo his endorsement.

Not having done this swap..... How hard is it to do?

Very simple swap...I'm pretty sure you don't even need a puller to remove the Pontiac harmonic balancer IIRC

True that Pontiac balancers are a slip fit, no puller needed. Some aftermarket SFI approved units are a press fit, but not factory balancers.

You'll need a 15/16" socket and at least a 200 lb/ft torque wrench to install it at the factory specified 160 lb/ft torque, as well as a way to lock the flywheel or flex plate to keep it from turning.

Any harm in torquing it with wheels on the ground and in gear?

If it was only that easy, but you can't.

The car will start moving forward, try it and find out for yourself.

Blocking the flywheel from turning is really the only way.

OK.... Thank you

Maybe you can do it that way with someone in the car with their foot on the brake but not likely...give it a try

Been tried many times before to no avail.

Even with the car in gear with the brakes locked up tight the rear suspension still has a lot of 'give' in it, a lot like trying to torque that crank bolt down against a spring.

Just won't work.

AAC does great work,years ago I had them bond the RA V balancers I had made.Tom

I've always done it on an engine stand with the flywheel locked, but how about putting it in reverse and backing it up to a solid wall with a moving blanket and an old tire to pad the rear bumper? You ought to be able to get 160 ft lbs before the car went through the wall or caved in! Never done it, but under the shade tree, there's always a way! Happy New Year, everyone!

Bart, would rubber chocks, for both rear wheels, added to the above suggestions work?

An battery or air impact gun might help too.

An impact gun would do it, but not to the correct torque value.

It's lock the flywheel or nothing. Trying anything else isn't going to work.

Get under there and figure something out, it's not that hard.

I've been able to stop the flexplate from turning using a long screwdriver through one of the holes near the perimeter, screwdriver shaft against the block.

Should be able to remove one of the pressure plate bolts and use a longer one with a spacer, tightened down securely so the bolt doesn't bend.

If it's a 4 speed, you can lock the transmission in two gears at once, and then the engine can't turn. I've done it many times....

Importsmasher

I have a Muncie M20 4 speed. I fabricated this crude tool to lock the flywheel from underneath after removing the inspection cover, worked fine to achieve the 160 torque spec.

nice tool.

A screwdriver in the u-joints works also. Done is several times.

Bart, I only meant the impact gun would be a start. As said by you it would still need a torque wrench with the fly wheel locked not to turn.

Vicegrips on the flexplate/flywheel is still the quickest, simplest method. Last time at a friends house he only had a little six-inch Vicegrip and it still worked great. Locking the manual trans in two gears should work, but even that will introduce a little sponginess into the equation (but a pretty good test to see if the clutch is working properly).