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Engine Compartment Details
Hey guys, would you help me check out this engine compartment. I'm trying to sort out this car from long distance because of the current travel restrictions.
I know the master cylinder is missing paint but my concern is the wiring and tri-power linkage being correct. Does the firewall look right. Thoughts on anything looking like it needs attention is appreciated. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...921/khYzL2.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...921/GZE5Lo.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...921/ixT1op.jpg https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/AWR3z1.jpg |
Brake booster looks like it has been painted grey along with the master cylinder and cap. The white valve in the brake booster looks like it's wrong. The vacuum hose should mount at a 90 degree angle. Looks to have a ps fan, but that has been debated. The metal line going from the back of the carb to the brake booster shouldn't be painted engine color, should be natural. Ground strap from the passenger side inner fender to frame is missing. Radiator cap is a replacement.
Wiring looks ok to me. I don't see anything wrong with the firewall. The linkage looks ok to me, but it's been a long time since I've had an original one. |
I agree with Jerry on every point he covered. It would not take much effort to make that underhood pristine. It's funny that someone disconnected the vacuum advance hose and stuck it on the throttle cable tower.
Driving any GTO with manual steering is a huge PITA. Just my opinion. I'd trade the power brakes for power steering in s heartbeat! |
Jerry caught some things I didn't notice. I believe the master cylinder should be raw (not painted). I don't think I have a bleeder on mine, either.
Obvious things a person looks for are: are the valve covers on correctly? and - is the radiator cap on the correct side of the finger guard? Those both look ok. Count me as one that says the fan is correct. My belief is that there is one large diameter fan, so you get the notches in the blades even though you don't need them in a non-power steering application. Mine has a "caution-fan" label at the rear of the finger guard. I don't mind driving a non-power steering car. You just need to be rolling a bit to crank in the steering (don't try to do it while stopped) and keep your hands clear when the steering wheel returns to center - it's going to really fly! It's part of the fun for me. K |
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My daily driver 37 years ago was a manual steering 67 GTO 360hp. with the sport wheel. Trying to catch the steering wheel when it returned could be painful if you weren't careful.
My father loved to borrow that car for running neighborhood errands. On a return trip from the local grocery store he took it through the gears with my grandfather in the back seat. My father said my grandfather was plastered back into the rear seat only getting relief between gear changes. It's good to hear my father showed mercy for my M-20 by not speed shifting. Dad still likes to mention that moment to this day. . |
Oops, thought you were talking about a '64. Disregard my reply.
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Carb linkage is correct for a Tri-Power in 1965.
Tom V. |
I know of this car. It just sold out of Southern CA, was from NY originally. The new owner is shipping it to Wisconsin. It's an all original, starlight black/black 360 HP, M-21 3.90 car with metallic brakes. 58,000 original miles, never restored. I looked at it really hard and the only '65 I've seen that compares to it is Van's (now Keiths) car. Absolutely a real deal car in amazing shape. Has rally gauges and splitters, but no console. Truly a time capsule.
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