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Scuffing E-Coat
What the preferred material for scuffing E-coat before paint? Scotchbrite OK or should I use sandpaper?
The part in questions is a core support. Thanks |
Maroon scotchbrite pad.
Don |
NOT a body man! I scuff everything with scoth-brite and simply green or purple power if it is really dirty.
Blow dry it with clean hands and paint it! |
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I dont trust Ecoat at all especially on the repro parts made overseas.
I normally DA everything with 180 grit and then apply epoxy primer Remember Ecoat is the first type of coating on the metal if its bad then everything else you use, Epoxy primer, surfacer, sealer and paint is only as good as the Ecoat |
Maroon it is then.
I was surprised by this E-coat ... I bought this core support probably 15 years ago when AMES was in town for a show. It sat in it's box in the shed for all that time, basic shed, open eves, tarp for a door. Not a spot of rust anywhere on it, not even on the weld joints. Jeez, found the commercial pack on Amazon ... very reasonable. Thanks folks. |
If you’re one of those guys who likes to use water based products the Presta Scuff Stuff is made to prep painted surfaces for paint.
https://www.prestaproducts.com/Scuff...p-details.aspx Don |
If the coating on your new part washes off with a rag and lacquer thinner, it has to go to bare metal first. That was made clear when I had my PPG certification course.
We use 220 and any hard to reach shiny spots get the red scotch brite. Two coats of black epoxy, then color coat. |
I did a lot of modification and welding to this core support ( to make the F'in thing fit), the E-coat was a pain the rear, it was very tough to remove, both abrasive or chemical ... I didn't try lacquer thinner, but I know flammable brake cleaner on a paper towel rubbed briskly would come away just barely darkened. Not sure I have any lacquer thinner in the shop, but I have acetone, MEK and enamel reducer.
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1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 539713Maroon Scuff pad....then treat any bare metal with etch primer ,let that flash for 30-60 minutes...then sealer and paint. No need to scuff the etch primer..it is wet on wet.. If it’s just going semi flat black black ....SEM make a spray bomb that goes over bare metal....slick stuff.
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You don't hear many people mention the DTM (direct to metal) paints that are popular in industry, I assume that's what the SEM stuff is. Would be great for lots of the semi-gloss chassis parts etc. Supposedly holds up real well. Just about any major manufacturer has a line of DTM products. Also used a lot in dipping applications.
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I found some DTM enamel at a Sherwin Williams store some years ago for dipping a metal product I was producing in volume. The dipping was a pain, but the paint itself was great, there are a few of the items still knocking around in storage for probably ten years, other than dusty they still look great.
Anything special to know about spraying it? |
Nope ...just shake and spray....out of spray bomb
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I’ll take SPI epoxy over 1K rattle can any day. No need for a topcoat.
Don |
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Because this topic has drifted (my fault) from preparation to different opinions on coating applications, I offer the link below for anyone to read. Because of my line of work I lean toward over-kill for longevity and quality. I realize that doesn't fit everyone else's situation.
https://kta.com/kta-university/recom...ing-thickness/ |
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Valid point. For instance we have so many Nissan products on the roads here with clear coat delam "stripes" on the upper surfaces that it's not funny. It must be because they save on production costs with a cheap product that usually fails just past warranty limits.
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