Is this fixable
 

Looks like the block moved while getting decked. Welding might work but the tapped hole are another problem. What do you think?
Junk?

That is extremely strange!
I guess a crank grinding shop that can weld could fix it.

Looks like the block wasn’t tied down when the milling head started across the deck. Yes, it is repairable. Brazing would probably be the best technique.

I would expect brazing to be too soft, the head gasket fire ring would brinnell/indent the brass.

Cast-iron welding...maybe. The weldor better be good.

"I" would tell the machine shop to find me another block. This is their screw-up, they should be taking care of you.

Is this fixable
 

Yeah… me and someone would be having a problem. They owe you a same or “better” block. No questions. And, an apology. That being said I’ve seen two welders in my life who could fix that like it never happened. Both drunks. I’m sure there is one where you live. But! If I tried it, I’d make it a low compression motor and keep cool. I’d be scared on a big compression motor that it might cough up a weld slug, right through the fender and upside someone’s head sitting next to me. Make ‘Em buy you a block. [emoji6]


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Glad it’s not mine. But you are correct the machine shop should find another block

IDK. Someone knows more than me but could you punch it out and sleeve it to create a solid fire ring and then weld up to it? I’d try that as a back up block. To the one they bought me!


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Unless that is a 'matching numbers' or some special block, we'd never chance it....
 

That would be defined in my book as a 'major screw-up by the machinist'.

As mentioned, there would be some serious conversation with the owner of the machine shop. You took him a usable block and he gave you back an UNusable block.

He owes you a new block. Pure and simple.

Good luck!

Every trades do major screw ups. Why not ask a engine builder ?

Block
 

Ouch!! Hope that's not a matching number block to a high-value car!!

There's a process termed "Lock & Stitch" That looks like it could work for that damage. The process is used to repair cracked blocks. That machined gouge may be able to be repaired in the same manner.

I had a used up 350 SBC block that looked like that. It was already .060 over etc.... It was brazed up just as Hurryinhoosier62 mentions and then I continued to use it in a Monza that I raced in UMTR fairly regularly for about 3 years as well as daily drove it, and it was still running fine when I pulled it for a larger CI build. Sold it to another guy who also raced the engine for quite a while.

Somebody gets to keep a trophy! screwhole is not an issue...but DECK THICKNESS is. Yeah SOMONE can weld that!!!! Finding that someone....might be a bit more challenging. If it's NOT a "special" number block...the SHOP should be able to replace it in a couple phone calls. If it IS SPECIAL.....The shop is going to have to make ALOT of phone calls when THEY REPLACE IT!

Looks like they lost an insert on the cutter head. NOTE: nice FLAT touchoff mark on lifter side.....then progressively deep DIVE at the same "arc". If the insert was loose and tried to come out during the interrupted cut (cylinder bore)...I could see that happening. And immediately making a phone call to REPLACE YOUR BLOCK!

Yes. it can be fixed. I'm surprised the machine shop didn't send it to a competent welding shop. Because the gouge is open ended the cast iron weld will have a place to expand. But I wouldn't pay for the procedure.

Please let us know what the ultimate resolution is/was.

That's one heck of a gouge! But accidents happen. Depends on the type of surfacer how that happened. If the cutter is located under the block, I agree the block must have dropped on it. If the cutter is overhead, it's a little more puzzling how a groove that deep would have happened. I can tell you I feel terrible when something like this happens, but it does sometimes. The very worst "screw-up" machining I have personally been responsible for was a numbers matching DZ 302 block for a Z28. Had it in the Computerized Rottler F5A boring mill, all set-up and ready to cut the 3rd of 4 bores on one side. You hit the go button and the centering fingers are supposed to come out automatically and center the cutting head, then release and begin boring. This time, 3 of the 4 fingers came out and the 4th one hung up in the cutter head and didn't center. By the time I realized what was happening and hit the emergency stop it had bored an offset hole, about .200" to one side, about .150" deep. Horrible, horrible nightmare. Much worse than that gouge. We fixed it by locating the bore of the untouched area manually and installing a custom flanged sleeve we had made by LA sleeve. It was quite an ordeal. But we saved it.

Your block, I would probably pre-heat it gently and weld the groove in with a silicon bronze welding rod. Build it up and then resurface it. I would also probably offer to do the bare block work for no charge as a good faith effort to
make it right for the customer. I see no performance issues with repairing it. It's away from water and shouldn't be an issue. Best of luck with it.

Brazing too soft?

I without fail I always find it harder to grind then cast iron, unless we are talking about cast iron that has been over heated and turned blue as on flywheels and brake drum’s.
When I have ported heads that have been fixed by brazing I have to use a stone and then sand the excess braze down to level it off with the surrounding iron so I don’t dull my Burr’s.

I will report back when I hear what was decided to do with that block. Fix or replace. Might be a while.

The right guy can weld it… I’d find a shop the specializes in cast iron head repair..
Definitely worth repairing

I think its been mentioned... If you are considering having it repaired and not demanding the shop replace that block I second the method of preheating the block and welding the damaged area, resurface it then sleeve it. I think it will be good as an almost used/re-manned block. The sleeve would limit the direct combustion heat and pressure from stressing it over time.

I feel the block needs to be put in an oven and welded hot... I'm not sure of the best temp, but I am sure someone knows.

SPEED SAFE, NICK

Iron Repair
 

Back in the mid 70"s the head of a Ram IV valve stock valve broke off and damaged the combustion chamber of a 722 head. After asking many racers and machine shops I took the head to Indy Cylinder Head and they repaired it. So way back then I learned,.the hard way, do not trust Ram IV valves even with flat tappet spring pressures. I don't know if they still repair cast iron maybe another member does. :old: