Weight Distributing Hitches
 

I'm setting up a 35' motorhome to tow a 24' enclosed car trailer. I'm trying to pick a weight distributing hitch and there's a lot of confusing info out there. I'm hoping somebody(s) with direct experience can weigh in. I'm especially interested in hearing from the (3) guys who transport cars for a living and hoping for others with motorhome experience.

Pleeeeeeze.....I'm guessing in advance that some folks will have differing opinions. Please state your viewpoint, but refrain from arguing with others. I can sort out the info myself and there's no need for hard feelings.

I can see (3) basic types and of course the ads for all of them say they're great.

1) the traditional kind with chains to attach the bars to the trailer
2) the chain-type with a separate sway control (the sliding kind with the adjustable tension)
3) the newer kind that has brackets instead of chains and the friction of the bars sliding thru the brackets gives some degree of sway control.

I'm picking up little bits of worrying info. I see claims of some being noisy, I saw one place that said that the sliding sway control can't be used if the roads are slippery and another place that said they have to be unhooked to back up.

Direct experience from actual users please. Thanks in advance.

P.S. I'm willing to pay $$ to get a safe tow but the ones that are several thousand dollars are probably not in the cards.

Eric

Is this a Class A or C?


I use #2 but have had it for a long time. (not sure they had the #3 then)
If its a Class A make sure there is a full frame for the hitch setup?

Super C on a Chevy Kodiak C5500 chassis. It is rated for 8000 lb towing capacity. I've done a lot of crawling around under it and the full frame and hitch look up to the task.

What's your experience with the sway control unit?

Eric

Relative info here: I had a 1/2 ton truck and used type 3 with my open car trailer and the bracket on the trailer got hung up and twisted and broke the L-shaped keeper. Kind of a fluke thing and is typical with my luck, but it’s not a bad idea to carry spares of whatever can break (both racecar and trailer related).

I'm researching too so don't have personal experience as you asked but there is a lot
of discussions on this topic on RV discussion boards. Here's one
https://www.irv2.com/forums/

I like the sway control with the load levelers. It keeps the trailer from swaying too much like when a semi goes by. (or you pass a semi)

I also back up with them on. but very easy to jack-knife the trailer if not careful.

That Super C would be a great hauler probably. I also know of some who use the 'toad' I think its called. Connects between the trailer and tow vehicle.
ProBird has one. Relieves all the weight on the hauler. (from making it sag down)

:)

I've used the #2 setup on several trailers and trucks for about 30 years with my various race cars. Works well, and I like the adjustments available. Won't tow without an equalizer now.

Just make sure to disconnect the sway controller if you're doing tight articulations.

Do you need one ?
 

Whether or not you need a weight distribution
hitch and equalizers depends on your trailer
design and the vehicle you put in it or on it.

Every trailer and every vehicle you put in
a trailer changes the tongue weight.

For example - this is the trailer I pull
just about every day - notice the axle
placement …

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1696128989.


If I transport a vehicle in the usual position
(front end forward) then I benefit from
a weight distribution/equalizer set up.

However - if I reverse the vehicle then my
trailer is balanced and I don’t need one.

Most folks haul the same vehicle(s ) in or
on the same trailer pulled by the same
tow vehicle.

My advice is to experiment with your set up.


Jim

Eric- I don't want to sidetrack your thread, but I have a related question. Before considering a weight-distributing hitch, is there an ideal tongue weight (expressed in weight on tongue or as some fraction of weight of loaded trailer)? I've experienced too little tongue weight with the rear engined lakester loaded facing forward on a single axle open trailer. I improved it by moving the trailer axle rearward, but I just guessed at a distance to move it.

Is that because the friction forces fight articulation or because it runs out of travel?

Thanks,
Eric

The motorhome concerns me that the hitch is so far aft of the rear axle that it really amplifies the leverage that tongue weight has on the tow vehicle.

Eric

Motorhome factory hitch
 

If the OP’s motorhome is modern
and the hitch was designed and
installed by the manufacturer
there should be no concern.

Provided the class rating of the
receiver hitch meets the OP’s
estimated towing needs.

If the OP has a “ meat & potatoes “
welding shop near him - it would not
be a bad idea to have a qualified welder
check out the receiver hitch.

Turning tight with a motorhome
when pulling a trailer can be made
easier by having a trailer tongue
longer than standard.
My custom built enclosed car hauler
trailers all had 60 inch tongues.

Another consideration is actual
combined overall length of the
motorhome and trailer combined.

I have seen several motorhomes
pulling trailers stopped by
Vehicle Enforcement because
the combined length exceeded
the allowed maximum in the state
they were traveling in.

Jim

It can run out of travel and bind.

Yes, at least 10%. This video shows what happens when you don't have enough tongue weight: https://youtu.be/4jk9H5AB4lM?si=DnV-fB4D06Q4fCS4

Also realize that without a weight distribution hitch, tongue weight ADDS to the rear axle weight of the tow vehicle and REMOVES weight from the front axle. If significant, it can lead to steering and braking stability problems.

Wow, good one!

Eric

Hello Sir,

I am only responding because you asked for opinions from the transporters here, but I am sorry to say that I cannot offer an opinion of which one is better. Truth is that in 41 years & well over 4 million accident free transport miles....I have never used one! I just never had the need for one.

My trucks have for the most part always had stout suspensions & I have always liked lighter aluminum trailers (open or enclosed). During the time I was pulling the heavy ones (48ft 2 car tri axle Featherlite & 53 ft 3 car Featherlite with a lift) they were both goosenecks.

I do have some experience with extended frames like yours & that extra length can make a difference in what you do & what you use. I built a square body GMC 4 door dually many years ago & extended the frame 2 & 1/2 feet myself to accommodate the 12ft bed I built for it & also made the hitch myself, but again only pulled lighter single car trailers with it.

I can suggest however that if you have a flat front trailer, buy a bubble from Fitgerald's in California. That does wonders for buffeting wind from other trucks, makes it more stable & raises your fuel mileage. Other than that, I would try it the way it is 1st before spending money you may not need to spend.

God Bless
Bill Squires (owner)
Bill's Auto Works
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...closed.614419/

It's hard to overstate how much impact your video link had on understanding the vehicle dynamics that are happening. Here's another similar video that goes into more detail.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06_lbECEqSg

Eric

I have a 31' Class C motorhome built on a Ford E-450 Super Duty chassis. We have 10 feet of overhang behind the rear wheels and the weight distributing hitch adds another foot past the bumper. We have the hitch you describe in #3 with the bars. We have a 20' enclosed trailer rated to 7000lbs loaded. Our Gross Combined Vehicle Weight is 20,000 lbs. and we travel pretty close to that weight. Our motor home also has an air bag system that we keep at 40lbs for towing.
Our car hauler has the flat front, not a V-nose and the ball mount is 3 feet out from the front of the trailer, the hitch adds another foot. Our motorhome is wider and taller than the car hauler so it keeps the wind off the front of the trailer and with 4' between, we do have plenty of room to make almost a 90 degree turn.
We traveled a long distance across country without the weight distributing hitch bars attached. (My friend said we didn't need them and wouldn't make a difference, he was wrong). Our motorhome did a good job keeping everything under control but every time an 18 wheeler pasted us it was like being on a plane going through turbulence. Like it was pushing us aside as it past us. Our next trip I connected the weight distributing bars and traveling in the Mid-west with 25-30 mph wind gusts, we couldn't even feel the trailer behind us. It made a world of difference and I would highly recommend them! Yes the bars are a little noisy but we only hear them rub when turning slowly pulling out of a parking lot or fuel station. I think the bars in the brackets along the frame of the trailer provides the best sway control over the chain style. That's my personal experience and hope that helps!

I have had many different RV/Trailer combinations. With a Class C the key is to keep the tongue weight at 10-15 percent. Purchase an Equalizer hitch with sway control. You will be very happy. They are not cheap and require professional help to install properly.

Eric- thanks for the tongue weight video!