I've tried the one half of the spring compressor gag...didn't like it and it didn't work well for me. Not to mention that if the frame is painted/coated you tend to mar the finish no mater how many washers and how much grease you use. Plus who has the patience to fish those lose hooks up inside the spring and then re-thread the darn shaft every time you do this. I've done it a bunch since discarding the compressor routine...here is my methodology:
1. Jack up the side your going to work on higher than is necessary to remove the wheel and place a jack stand under the frame.
2. Remove the jack and remove the wheel.
3. place the floor jack under the lower control arm, closer to/under the ball joint is always better. you may want to remove the zerk fitting first to prevent it breaking off. Also, if total disassembly is your goal now is a good time to remove the anti-sway bar end links...sometimes it helps even if you are not doing a total dismantle as they can bind.
4. loop a chain through the front axle of the floor jack and then up and over the frame as close to or through the A-arm cross shaft as possible. Some experimentation with angle and positions will be necessary. use a nut, bolt and washers to fasten to ends of the chain together. If the frame is "ugly" then don't worry about protecting it from the chain. If your frame is "pretty" then cut an old bicycle inner tube in half to make a sleeve for the chain...work it over the chain. I did the inner tube thing eight years ago and haven't had to redo it since. The chain is mostly for safety on the removal but essential for install.
5. Raise up the jack to begin compressing the suspension stop before you lift the car fromthe jack stand. Now is a good time to remove the tie rod end it you are going that far or if it will be in the way.
6. loosen but do not remove the nuts on the upper and lower ball joints. leave them both threaded on the studs about 1/2 to 2/3 their depth (or a full if your cautious).
7. I like to start with the lower ball joint and use a pickle fork to break the spindle loose from the ball joint. It will pop under the pressure of the spring but be stopped from fully unloading by the nut. This also releaves pressure form the spring. now you can back the jack off some to unload more of the pressure. Next use the fork to pop the spindle loose from the upper ball joint.
8. Now you can back off the jack some more and begin removing the lower ball joint stud nuts. Most of the stored energy in the spring is gone as it is no longer at full compression. When the nut comes off there will be a little jump. If you left he upper ball joint nut on then the spindle will be hanging there waiting for you to remove it (if you did it the other way then you will find that gravity works an the spindle assembly will want to fall on you, your jack or the floor depending on the situation).
9. you shoudl be able to lowe the jack the rest of the way after removing the chain. If you set it up right you may be able to do so with out removing the chain. If you are just swapping springs or spindles then don't unhook...just pop the new parts in and reverse the process. The chain keeps the frame from moving away from you as the spring starts to compress. I've used this method with a bare F-body subframe.
Using this method I was able to cahnge out drum brake spindle assemblies for disc brake assemblies on a '68 Camaro Rs (no interior, engine or tranny) in about 45 minutes.
I have only come close to disaster once, in 2003. I was disassemlying my '69 Z/28 to replace the springs and the bushings. Years ago (1988) I had someone else install new springs..they were the wrong ones. I got cocky and didn't chain up on removal. Thought I had all the compression out of the spring...removed the jack before removing the upper ball joint nut. The thing uncoiled and propelled the lower control arm and spindle assempby earthwards. Slammed the dust shield into the concrete (bent it) and missed my leg by inches. Plus it nearly gave me a heart attack. Turns out the spring was a full coil and a half longer than it should have been for that car. But it was user error and not a methodological failing...if I'd followed prceedure then it would have been fine. As I final thought. I have never had any luck reassemblying without the chain as the car always wants to move skyward before one can get the spindle through the ball joint stud. sort of like Tantalus reaching for the fruit over his head.
Good luck either way you choose to go.
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