My next problem was the rusted out driver window support frame. I was unable to find a used one that was in better shape than the one I had, so I decided to repair what I had. Although channel is not hard to make on the grand scheme of things, it presented me with problems since my sheet metal brake is only rated for 20 gage metal. The original channel is 18 gage metal. I probably could had bent a 22" long piece of 18 gage but 16 was all I could find. Although there is a steel shop near me, they only sell 4x8 foot sheets, which was more than I cared to purchase. In addition the 16 gage piece was too short to make the channel in one piece, so I ended up butt welding two pieces together.
This is my staring point, 4 of the 6 spot welds holding the channel to the end pieces had totally rusted out.
I started the bends with my sheet metal brake, then inserted the piece in this form I make. Inserted the 3/8" thick piece metal in the partial bend piece and used my press to finish the bend.
After welding the pieces together, I used a vise grip set to about 1/8" less than the width of the channel and then bend the top of the channel to match the contour of the factory channel. Here is the finished piece.
After cleaning the end pieces, I'm ready to weld the channel to the end pieces.
This is the completed piece with a clear coat applied.
Since I used a thicker metal it was difficult to get the window inserted in the channel, but I finally succeeded.
Windows are now installed on the driver side.
I still need to make final adjustments for window position. One problem I'm having is the driver door power window goes down extremely fast, in fact it looks too fast. It also won't go up without being helped. I think I read somewhere that at least one person received a power window unit that the spring had been installed backwards. I getting the sinking feeling that I may have one.
I will have to take everything back apart to get the power unit out. Even the vent window mounts have to be loose.