Quote:
Originally Posted by Schurkey
As said, the PRW rockers are questionable. However...is it the ROCKERS that don't clear the valve cover, or is it the polylocks holding the rockers in place? Generally, it's the polylocks, and it's easy to buy shorter ones. Then you don't need the valve cover spacers, which allows you to lift the rear of the engine.
Make sure the fan still rides OK in the fan shroud, the radiator hoses aren't kinked, and the distributor clears the firewall acceptably. If the transmission has the back-drive linkage up to the steering column, you'll want to assure that it still works properly--maybe needs adjustment.
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Thank you Schurkey, It's the Polyloks !!!
Total novice here trying to learn. I did not know I could have went with shorter polylocks, that is an eye opener. First time dealing with Hyd. roller cam or roller rockers. However, you guys have already educated me and probably some others about how suspect the PRW steel roller rockers are.
I'm open to suggestions. I read online (so you know it's true) aluminum roller rockers are only good for 20-30K miles. I don't know that to be true, I'm sure a lot of you do know if that's a fact or not. I want longevity if that's possible using roller rockers. If not, I can go with a good set of plain old stamped steel rockers. Obviously the consensus is PRW is junk, so, I'm all ears.
Cliff and others went with Crower Enduro. Can they stand up to pleasure driving on the weekends or join up on the Power Tour? Just want to drive my car.
Mine is just a street motor: 4.21 early N crank, 4.21 bore, eagle rods, Ross pistons +0.060". Comp 224/230, 503/510, 4-7 swap mild hyd. roller, Butler Built Edelbrock CNC 87CC Round Port 61525 hyd. roller heads w/Holley Sniper Quadrajet.
Just trying to get it going before I'm too old to enjoy it. Thanks