Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Serio
Replacing original GM parts with new reproduction parts is not always a guarantee that the new parts are good.
That said you have 2 ways you can go here, one is to step by step break down the wiring into sections, thereby eliminating the source of the problem until you arrive on the problem area; that at least that narrows it down to a smaller size footprint on your car. Or 2) find an NOS GM turn signal switch and un-plug the old one underneath the dash and plug in the new one first to try that & see if that solves your problem. By your descriptions I believe that you may have 2 problems or more, one you seem to have a ground back-feed issue where the current is not going to where is should but instead is finding the shortest pathway to ground which is to say the path of least resistance. Or you may have the wrong bulb in the wrong socket as those 1157 bulbs have twin filaments with a common ground. Or you may have a socket made improperly or one installed in the wrong location as the 68 GTO tailamps have a pair of regular lights, + your brake lights plus back-up lights combined all sharing the same ground; and all in one housing. (Each per side.) The back-up bulbs are, I believe 1156s.
Please keep us posted as to what you find, you may need to take your car to a restoration shop that specializes in GM car electrical problems as this one is most likely not going to be easy to find. Turn signal switches go bad over time, they will not last forever so replacing one of those just as a precaution is never a bad idea. I would recommend an original GM switch if you can find one. Some of these modern made in China reproduction switches will not last a year. That is if they work at all from the beginning.
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Thank you for your response.
The bulbs are all good. The bulbs are ALL the correct bulbs at all six locations. The sockets are all good. They are original in front and replacement from AMES in the rear. But, as I stated earlier, the problem started BEFORE replacing the rear housing assemblies. They were replaced because they were very dull and did not reflect enough light and one of four sockets for the tail, stop, hazard, turn signal bulbs lost its spring tension, otherwise they worked just fine.
The grounds at the sockets are all good. The ground strap under the dash is good.
If I need a new switch, how can I determine that the original switch and/or the switch wiring and 9 pin connector is actually the problem?
No one has experienced this problem?
I do not mind buying a new one, but it would require removing the steering wheel and the switch. According to AMES, you must identify the switch and choose between two different switches.
Is there a way to test the switch before removing it?