"Dizzy is Dave’s Small Body HEI and coil is Summit brand e-core." Entirely the WRONG coil. That coil is an epoxy filled coil, and NOT the one I recommend, which is a round OIL FILLED coil. The epoxy filled coils run too hot in the core, because epoxy does not transfer heat from a source, it retains it (epoxy is a heat barrier, not a transfer compound), and this helps the coil layer short when it gets hot, and along the way to failure, the coil will fail HEI modules until the coil is changed.
Will, that electrical tester at the better auto parts sore should not only test the coil, but the HEI module as well. If you need more help with it, please contact me at the website email address, or call me. I'll be more than happy to help.
Now, resistance tests of any and all coils are OK for a COLD coil, don't usually tell us much, but, coils don't fail when they are cold, they fail when they get up to operating temperatures, so, unless you can leap out of the car when it stops dead, and rip the hood open to test the hot coil, before it cools off, you aren't going to get an accurate reading of the coil with an ohm meter. The ONLY good way to test a coil is to remove it from the car, and run it on an off vehicle run tester that better parts stores have. But, don't just do a 5 second burst and declare it good, let it run, get it up to temperature, and see what goes there.
Also, for one of my conversions, if the fuse box has an IGN or IGNITION terminal, hot in both start and run, cold everywhere else, a simple 12 gauge wire through the firewall from it, to the positive terminal on the coil is the only power up needed. Some have done this with a 14 gauge wire, with NO adverse issues. This method allows leavng the resistor wire set in place, but disconnected, taped off and run along the wiring loom, without altering the wires, nor wiring loom.
|