Brian,
Sorry, I cannot buy that statement. To borrow your quote from the other topic;
“In my opinion, you need to upgrade the radiator to an Aluminum RR or other brand (I'm running a BeCool custom for the 67-69 Firebird). It makes a huge difference at highway speeds. I tend to run a little hot crawling around town (180 - 190 range), but on the highway I'll drop down into the 170 range - with oil temp in the pan ~ 200 - 210. With your engine, convertor, and gears - you are going to make some heat. No way a stock configuration is going to work. What keeps me cool:
Aluminum Radiator
Flex Fan
16" Electric Fan Front of Radiator (Pusher)
Stamped Impellor Water Pump (Yes, stamped)
Gutted Thermostat
No Heater Core
Bypass Blocked (between the water pump/intake)Mostly Water for Coolant mixture with some wetter and water pump additives.”
My thoughts are that if you had a pump that moved water efficiently, you would not be overheating at low speeds, when heat generation should be less, what with the “improvements”(?) you have made to make the air flow and water flow through the radiator better. Agreed, an aluminum radiator is more efficient at exchanging heat, but your other modifications are questionable. If you had a good “pumper” at the “heart” of the system, maybe some of the other things would not have had to be done. I just cannot believe a stamped impellor can be as efficient as a cast one such as the one’s in the pictures above. Grabbing a chunk of water and throwing it, as compared to causing to flow smoothly & efficiently just does not make sense.
Worked on a lot of water pumps for wells, irrigation pumps, sump pumps, boat motors, etc., and have never seen a serious pump have stamped vanes in them. Must be a reason....
Not wanting to start an argument here, and will not, but your idea does not fit anywhere in the KISS principle parameters. The simple fix works very, very well for me.
Charles
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