For removing undercoating, a heat gun is okay, but I normally use a propane torch since it heats it up faster, so the job moves along faster. You just have to be very careful not to catch anything on fire. Keep a fire extinguisher, or bucket of water or sand close by just in case. So, propane torch in the left hand heating up a small section of undercoat at a time, and a 1-1/2" or 2" wide putty knife(metal blade) in the right hand coming right behind the heat, scraping it off pretty easily.
Lay down some 3.5 mil plastic sheeting to catch the scrapings and mess and keep your floor clean.
Scrape off as much as you can. Then to remove the remaining residue, put some mineral spirits in a spray bottle and spray the mineral spirits on a small section at a time, and use some #3 coarse steel wool to scrub it off. Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands. It dissolves pretty easily. Finish up by wiping it down with mineral spirits on an old terry cloth towel. It'll be pretty clean at that point.
Beyond that, to prepare for painting, you could sand and wirebrush the metal and try removing as much rust as your can. Sandblasting would be best for removing rust, but of course makes a bigger mess. After cleaning that up, then spray with epoxy primer, and then finish as you wish. 78 and older normally had a red oxide primer bottom. 79-81 normally were black oxide bottoms. Epoxy primer is available in either of those colors and would be more durable than the original lacquer primer the factory used, and would be good enough by itself. I like to spray over the epoxy with some urethane clear, flattened to a satin gloss, which looks nicer and provides added protection. Or you could paint over the epoxy with body color if originality is not important.
__________________
Steve F.
|