This will be one of my last posts on this issue and it will be long, and since I’m on my phone doing it it has had a habit of “losing” long posts. I really don’t want to type all this just to lose it.
Doesn’t really matter whether the harness is the replaceable condenser style or the latest last chip style. The originals had a replaceable condenser, then they went to a fixed round condenser like the first ones except it was hard wired into the connector body. The last ones are a hardwired chip or wafer style. The condenser was a rfi radio interference capacitor or filter. But this harness is actually the heart and soul of the whole operation. Have a glitch here and nothing will work correctly on up the food chain.
Really there in my opinion wasn’t an advantage to either of the three different harness styles, although the early replaceable capacitor style was nice cause if the condenser got out of spec you just connected another replacement. Kinda handy. You will if using one of these need to pay attention to the split brass female receptacle part of the condenser plug. It can get loose, and crusty. Simply wire brush it out and you can fit a pair of smaller needle nose pliers in to recriminations and shrink the brass receptacle so it fits snugly back again and you should be goid for another 20 years.
About the only thing in the harness you had to look out after was the plastic clips that locked to the cap. They would get brittle and if you got in a hey or even if you weren’t they might break. Didn’t matter much on the originals as they fit so tight you couldn’t blow em off, but this new stuff I’ve actually seen come disconnected on their own.
If you have an original with broken clips I’ve taken the cheap replacements and pulled the harness clip plug off the elcheapo and replaced the factory broken one for those that want to keep the original harness.
There is a very specific order the three wires go in on these and with enough removals of the plug over the years even the goid factory stuff might need some terminal attention sooner or later. This offshore junk gives you about 3 disconnects before the spade blades become squashed and need service.
I suggest removal of each terminal one at a time. There is a lock tab on the back of the terminal that releases it from the plastic connector body. When you get the terminal out we need to look at the flat spring ramp on the inside of the female terminal. You’ll need to wire wheel or clean this and note that the flat ramp should be resprung or basically restored up tight so it creates a pinching connection on the male spade portion of its matching connection. This is best accomplished by using a tool much like an ice pick or at the least a very small pocket screwdriver or a pic. Spring the ramp back up and reconnect the three terminals in the plastic connector and lets move on to something else.
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