[vertigto]

Originally Posted by FrankieT/A

You'll love the Nitto 555's. I happen to have Nitto 555 G2's, Killer tire. The wheels and tires will make more difference to handling than any thing else you do.

With that being said...

There are two schools of thought:

Stiff springs, soft shocks
Soft springs, stiff shocks

They both handle well, the difference is when you come into a turn, if your springs are too stiff your car won't dip while braking to come into the turn. Not good. So, better to have springs on the soft side. This is according Herb Adams.

The thing about springs is no one really knows how much a spring is going to lower a car. Things like Engine, A/C, options are all a factor not to mention the wire the spring companies are using. Call any suspension company and nobody will guarantee anything. So, that's hit and miss. You may have to change a spring or cut it to dial it in, that's after they settle of course. If you have time, look up front coil springs in a MOOG catalog and you will see the amount spring part numbers available for your car is mind boggling.

With the exception of camber changes built into aftermarket control arms they offer no improvement in handling. So, if you go that way make sure they have that built in. Tall upper ball joints are always nice. They improve camber while in a turn. I would never use drop spindles because they cause bump steer, which you will hate. Hit a bump and your car is skipping all over the road. The geometry between the outer tie rod connection at the spindle and the contact patch gets all janky.

Lastly, I would invest in the adjustable rear upper control arms. Adjust-ability is always good. You may need to adjust for pinion angle.

Great information...thank you.

I think the only front tubular control arm with camber changes built into the design are SPC, or am I mistaken? I like the BMR units (of course with tall ball joints), but I don't think they are designed that way...can anyone confirm?

Also, is the conventional wisdom that the front should be lowered more than the rear (e.g., 2" drop front with 1" drop rear or 1" drop front and stock height rear) to avoid the nose-up stock stance? Wondering if they latter is a better starting place to avoid sitting too low and front end scrap/bottoming out and springs could be cut if too high (although not ideal)?

I have come to realize after reading too many reviews about lowering springs, that a 2" drop doesn't necessarily mean that's where it will end up (even though most advertise @520 front and 125-200 rear). BMR does warranty (for life) that the springs won't sag...whatever that is worth.