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Old 08-20-2019, 08:08 AM
Cliff R's Avatar
Cliff R Cliff R is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Mount Vernon, Ohio 43050
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I wouldn't cut the block that far to tighten up quench. You'll start to run into other issues like intake fit, etc.

Those pistons also reduce compression with that much valve relief area. I'd get a taller and better piston to hang on your forged rods. Shoot for something that ends up .015-.018" in the holes instead to leave enough room for a nice clean-up and zero decking at the same time.

CC the heads and calculate the true static compression ratio. Then look at camshafts.

The last one of those engines I did here ended up at 10.4 to 1 compression and we found the Crower 60916 wasn't quite enough cam for it. It ran fine but we had to take a little more timing out of it than most to run pump gas, but still good end result but it could have been better. I know, I know, I should have just called Edelbrock and purchased their "RV" cam in it, and sent the customer out of here with a case of octane booster with instructions to put 1 can in it and time it by ear, then add another can if it pinged!....LOL

Seriously, it would be good news if you still have the original Ram Air carb, no problem putting a custom kit together for it with tuning parts once you nail down the final engine combo. If you have another part number I can also supply what you need to set that up. The points distributors don't need a lot of help. I replace the factory rubber bushing (if it's even there) with a stainless steel one, clean things up, zinc plate the parts if/as needed, and new vacuum advance. Most don't need much beyond that aside from a good set of points and condenser........Cliff

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73 Ventura, SOLD 455, 3740lbs, 11.30's at 120mph, 1977 Pontiac Q-jet, HO intake, HEI, 10" converter, 3.42 gears, DOT's, 7.20's at 96mph and still WAY under the roll bar rule. Best ET to date 7.18 at 97MPH (1/8th mile),