Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Baker
If it's a factory T-top car, they added extra reinforcing to the body to compensate for the added flex from cutting the roof, but it was a crutch designed to get the car past the warranty period.
If those are aftermarket, the body has REALLY been compromised, but subframe connectors will help correct it.
Don't even waste your time with bolt-on connectors, get the ones that require welding.
The style I had on my '79 T/A were box shaped, from Comp. Eng. I believe. The forward ends had a U-shaped "sleeve" that slid over and around the car's front subframe and the rearward ends curved upwards to meet the floor pan just in front of and inside the front leaf spring mount. Because of their large and boxed construction they we kind of "low" which may create clearance problems, but given I had Cal-Trac traction bars and 3-1/2" header collectors it wasn't a major concern for me on ground clearance issues.
I would also advise prior to welding in any subframe connectors to replace the front subframe body mounts, as I'm sure they're worn out, and they're rubber. You'll want to replace them with solid mounts. That combined with the subframe connectors will stiffen the body up enough that you'll think you need a kidney belt to drive the car over even moderate bumps LOL. Add a roll bar and forget about it, body twist will be a long gone memory.
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Mine are the Hurst Hatches my paperwork is telling me my car wasn't dropped shipped from the factory to Hurst. I also don't have a bill of sale from the dealership showing they sent the car over to Hurst for the conversion for a customer. So was it done by a pro or in a garage I'll never know, but what I do know is all the body panels and doors line up and close and open nicely. I'm not planning any kind of racing just want to add some of the integrity back to the car for a cruiser so I'm going to stay with the bolt in connectors. Thanks for the input Brian