[Boiler]

The below is good information. I spent almost 40 years working as an engineer, engineering manager and program manager for a automotive tier one wiring supplier.

I use open barrel splice clips, followed by just a touch of solder in case I didn't get a gas tight crimp and then I cover with a heat shrink.

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

I realize that many believe, and in the past have been advised, to solder connections, but, it is better to use quality non-insulated butt connectors, crimped with a quality crimper, and use shrink tubing.

If you want to blaze me on that statement, watch this before you do:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=faLn-SjVfwY

The Klein Tools crimper is the 'correct' crimper to use:

https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/c...ated-terminals

Home Depot carries Klein Tools crimpers.

Use nickel plated non-insulated barrel terminals like these:

https://www.waytekwire.com/products/...=Nickel-Plated

They are rated for high heat, but I use them across the board.

If you want to use open ended connectors, such as the Packard 56 series, use the appropriate terminals and crimpers, also available from a variety of auto wire warehouses and Summit. The Casper one is fine and inexpensive:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...CABEgK4vPD_BwE

Terminal Supply has 101 videos that are great on crimping:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXDedfvmI_0

Only use GLX or TLX wire, especially under the hood, no parts store cheap 'primary wire'. It can't tolerate the heat.

https://www.wirebarn.com/GXL-Automot...Foot_c_29.html

For those wires, I would unwrap a few inches, stagger the cuts and butt connectors, shrink wrap them, then use the same type of harness wrap that the existing harness was wrapped in. That too is available at Waytek Wire.

I did a ton of homework prior to wiring my entire car, customizing it, and it's also using an EFI setup. I wanted to make SURE I did it right, and did it only once.

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