[leeklm]

I recently went through a similar trial & error process with my manual disc/disc setup and learned a little more while speaking with a wilwood rep.

In another thread here, I think it was "rocktamas prime" (sp) asking about prop valves, and someone accurately stated that the engineers took every factor into consideration when designing a brake system. This includes calipers piston size, rotors, MC bore size, rod position on pedal, prop valve, etc. It was all designed to work together. Makes 100% complete sense.

I think your issue is having a "mashup" of parts, all good in their own respect, but not intended to work together. From everything you have tried so far, the suggestions that stood out for me include verifying which hole the push rod is in. If an upper hole is available, try it. Bore size... often times the smaller 1" bore size is preferred as it takes less pedal effort, which is why wilwood suggested it on my manual brakes.

I had a 66 Chrysler Newport in the early 80s with manual drums, there was a reason that brake pedal was 12" wide!! I thought it would be great to have pwr brakes so threw an OEM booster on it and the braking was no better maybe worse. Looking back, it was likely a push rod location or the booster not intended to work with that particular MC (improper rod length or similar)

You could try removing the booster, but my guess is your larger bore MC bore is not going to be your friend in that scenario. Another thought is to remove the prop valve and connect lines directly to the MC. If you end up with too much rear brake, then install an adjustable valve on rear line.

From everything stated here, my sense is that the vacuum pump is not going to get you where you want to be...





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