Thank you guys for the help! I bypassed the Mylar PCB and was able to determine the wiring from the back of the car was sound. I connected power and sensor (ohm signal) directly to the gauge without going through the Mylar PCB. What I found was the small white strip 90 ohm resistor connected from gauge studs 12 VDC to sensor stud was corroded. Of course it was the one item I forgot to disassemble and clean when I restored the original 68 dash! I cleaned off all the corrosion and re-installed, first without the Mylar PCB. Success! The fuel gauge now reads accurate (tank almost full) with ignition at start position and when engine running. Previously with engine running the needle would pass full and go off scale out of view. I think cleaning up the 52 year old resistor solved the problem. I need to reinstall the Mylar PCB and cross my fingers. I will take note of all your suggestions on using new hardware and clean connections so I don’t introduce a new problem.
Thank you again!
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