Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenth
The heat from the crossover is one of three factors that will make a combustible mixture of the gas.
The other two are velocity and amounts of fuel used.
Reducing the heat need compensated by the other two meaning you´ll have rev the engine higher and feed extra gas to the intake.
This means nothing to the 1/4 mile racers, they start at 4500 rpm´s and drive only a 1/4 mile a couple of times at weekends.
For a street driven vehicle this means worse drivability, economy and performance.
Fuel dribbling/percolating up to a half hour after shut off is often a result of the fuel line too close to hot engine parts rising the fuel pressure between the fuel pump check valve and carb inlet valve. This pressure can exceed 20 psi at times and there is NO inlet valve that holds against that kind of pressure.
I cured this issue on my 1966 Tripower GTO by using an electric fuel pump w/o check valve 25+ years ago, No heat insulators, no blocked off crossover, no percolating, no problems since. Also using the revised vented throttle body gasket in the end carbs makes for easier hot starts.
FWIW.
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I appreciate the detailed answer, and I am not arguing with what you propose.
I will say that it gets REALLY HOT in South Louisiana and Mississippi, and I know the underhood temps really get up there. Also, we are adding Vintage Air AC, but I am also installing a Cold Case radiator, which uses the BEST "new design", that being less rows (2) but larger tubes 1" part# GPG 18
The paint peeling off the intake tells me how very hot the intake was getting. The cast iron really holds the heat.
Also, besides 1320 foot WOT sprints at Gulfport Dragway, the BIGGEST car related event that we do EVERY year is Cruisin the Coast in the beginning of October. Typically the weather is GREAT, meaning relatively cool, dry, and beautiful blue skies. Still, temps get into the 80s sometimes, and LOTS OF STOP AND GO TRAFFIC.
I will keep your advice in mind.
Thanks