| FAQ |
| Members List |
| Social Groups |
| Calendar |
| Search |
| Today's Posts |
|
#1
05-21-2024, 01:37 PM
|
||||
|
||||
Front brakes dragging.
Completely new car from the ground up. As the title says the front brakes drag. Rear brakes do not, car stops just fine. I have an 8" trans am booster with a Bandit vacuume pump due to large cam but I'm not thinking that should cause any issues. Front brakes are factory style disc with a cast iron master cylinder and factory style perportioningvalve, I have adjusted the front brake pedal for a touch of play but it still drags. Does not pull left or right on braking just feels like I'm lightly applying brakes when coasting. When I jack up the car the front wheels do drag so it is confirmed. Car has 45 miles on it.
__________________
1969 GTO street strip project 11.1 forged 461, highport heads 1995 Trans-am 420 ci sb 14:1 compression 9"ford 9.89@132 1.34 60ft SOLD! |
|
#2
05-21-2024, 02:46 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I would suspect the brake flex lines not letting the pressure return to the reservoir. Have you tried cracking the bleed screw on a caliper to see if the brakes still drag?
__________________
Jeff R 60 Jaguar Mark 2, 3.8L Automatic 67 Sprint Firebird 230 OHC-6 4-Speed A/C 78 Catlina Safari, Pontiac 400 powered 77 Astre Formula, 215 Buick V-8 T-5 73 Lemans Safari, 400 4bbl 4-speed 71 Catalina Enforcer, 455 4bbl 06 Mallet Solstice #024 LS2, Now with a Tremec 6060 6-speed! 2012 F-150 Echo Boost (My local Ford Dealer SUX!!!) 2020 Dodge Charger Scat pack (recovered) |
|
#3
05-21-2024, 06:35 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Make sure the booster push rod is not too long.
|
| The Following User Says Thank You to Scarebird For This Useful Post: | ||
|
#4
05-21-2024, 09:15 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I will check the pushrod from the booster to the master cylinder. I will also check the flex lines. Good ideas both.
__________________
1969 GTO street strip project 11.1 forged 461, highport heads 1995 Trans-am 420 ci sb 14:1 compression 9"ford 9.89@132 1.34 60ft SOLD! |
|
#5
05-24-2024, 04:07 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
If you are running a reproduction brake booster, that is your problem. On these boosters the push rods are slightly too long. What I did on all my cars is put one washer on each booster stud before installing the master cylinder on the studs. One washer on each stud is all it takes to rectify the problem.
|
| The Following User Says Thank You to gtohurstjudge For This Useful Post: | ||
|
#6
05-29-2024, 11:23 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Ok haven't test driven it yet due to weather but this is what I found so far. I cracked the bleeders up front with no difference. I pulled the master off the booster and the rod was contacting the piston in the master before it was completely bolted up flush, probably less then 1/8 of an inch. I put a couple washers on the two studs behind the master. I pulled the calipers and greased the caliper slider inserts, they were tight and now move freely. I retracted the piston in the calipers and reinstalled,
I activated the vacuume pump to the booster and applied the brakes several times...seems to rotate with much less contact but haven't driven yet to build up any heat.
__________________
1969 GTO street strip project 11.1 forged 461, highport heads 1995 Trans-am 420 ci sb 14:1 compression 9"ford 9.89@132 1.34 60ft SOLD! |
|
#7
Today, 08:07 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Thanks for all the ideas. Not exactly sure what exactly fixed it but after spacing the master and greasing the slides it's much better!
__________________
1969 GTO street strip project 11.1 forged 461, highport heads 1995 Trans-am 420 ci sb 14:1 compression 9"ford 9.89@132 1.34 60ft SOLD! |
| Reply |
|
|
The PY Online Forums is the largest online gathering of Pontiac enthusiasts anywhere in the world. Founded in 1991, it was also the first online forum for people to gather and talk about their Pontiacs. Since then, it has become the mecca of Pontiac technical data and knowledge that no other place can surpass.
Linear Mode
